Haven't touched the car since TWS. Feels good.
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Haven't touched the car since TWS. Feels good.
I haven't touched mine since October and I'm getting itchy. I snagged some nice clean spindles yesterday in hopes of undoing what I did this year.
I've been messing with my truck, cleaning up wiring for my auxiliary stuff and giving it a much overdue detail. Up next clean up garage and hopefully buy/setup a new welder. Next up do some quick work on the trailer, THEN I'll finally touch the car.
Next up for me is swapping the marine intake onto my truck, then dyno prep Camaro, then track prep it. Before Hallett I really need to repack all 4 trailer bearings though. Then I can get the supercharger on the truck. :cool:
Have the engine at the builder. Injectors are out being cleaned. New fuel pressure regulator and gauge ready to install and have the transmission ready to go back together (replacing leaking cluster race)... The most of all this will happen the week of Christmas.
Got one of the blind hole bearings out of an input shaft... the one without the new bearing on it. Worst case just order another input shaft bearing. Plan L, or whatever we're on, may be to weld a nut to the race to get it pulled.
My car ate 4 pistons, bearings (both rod and main) was well as the rings... JOY!!!
Merry Christmas to me... :(
Going forward to not do this again
1. Degree the short block and scribe a "perfect" 10-deg BTDC mark on the balancer
2. Use 45psi of static fuel pressure (vacuum pulled)
3. Not going over 32-deg total timing on the tune
4. Putting in new "quick bleed" lifters that are supposed to tolerate high RPM better
5. New fuel pressure regulator and guage
Exotic lifters for an AI engine? Seems overkill.
No, just the $185 Ford Racing lifters vs. the "stock" $135 lifters...Quote:
Originally Posted by Supercharged111
Apparently, if you don't line up #29 and #35 (1st and 2nd gear blocker rings) when you press the 1/2 slider hub onto the mainshaft, you will push the keys out of the slider assembly. Only takes 2... maybe 3 tries to get it right.
The machined steps in the blocker rings are there for a reason. I broke a stamped key one time trying to muscle it together.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fbody383
One of you experts needs to come up here and rebuild the T56 in my Z06. As I was roasting my way through an intersection in 1st, I decided to throw 2nd and continue roasting. 2nd didn't happen. Who misses 2nd? This guy.
I just wish 3-4 and 5-4 weren't so hard.
I run a glide, 1-2/2-1 all day longQuote:
Originally Posted by Pranav
Picked up the engine today. New pistons/rings/bearings.. Hopefully the next "tune" will be a bit more friendly and give me engines that last more than 7-8 events..
Finally ordered myself a Hobart 140. Time to make some crappy welds.
Crappy looking welds are okay as long as they get full penetration!Quote:
Originally Posted by Pranav
Just do exhaust first. Nobody can see that unless you blow up a clutch and have someone help replace at the track. Francis?
What do you guys do for tanks? Buy your own and refill, or pony up for the big ones you exchange all the time?
Good advice.Quote:
Originally Posted by Supercharged111
Pranav, what are you up to mate? Do you mean gas cylinders for the welder, propane for the house or air for scuba? Which ever it is, Buy one mate, make it big, you might need it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pranav
Alright, I got a local deal for a 244 cf tank for $300 filled. Should I go for it?
I think you are better off to own the bottle. Full size (can't remember the letter designation) is best.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pranav
I bought bottles for 75/25 and pure argon. To be honest though, it's a bit of a PITA. I have to take them to the welding supply store for exchange, and they're never open late at night or Sunday when I seem to run out. Renting or exchanging from Home Depot would be much easier.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pranav
Or roll cage... I haven't wished for a bigger welder; yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by Supercharged111
Same here, a big 75/25 and argon bottle, I take the empty to Airco and they give me a full one. Getting a re-fill is a pita. My experience with small bottles is that they only run out after 5pm or on Sunday. My technique is to hang my hood on the gas bottle and close the valve. Forgetting to close the valve on a full large bottle is a lesson you will generally learn the first time :-)Quote:
Originally Posted by Dulaney
Just picked up a big old bottle of 75/25. Sparks will be flying this christmas weekend!
Similar story here. I bought a medium (#4) 75/25 bottle from the Tractor Supply near my house and have emptied and exchanged it 3 times in a little over 2 years. I did lose ~1000psi once from forgetting to close the valve but the rest was actual welding. However, if I had it to do over again, I would rent or lease a bottle from a local welding supply company that does free home delivery. I stumbled across one recently and for what I've used so far, I'd be a few hundred bucks ahead and wouldn't have to stand in line and fill out a bunch of paperwork every 7-9 months. Might lose the option for an after hours / weekend refill but that's not a new problem and there are plenty of ways to solve it...
I use praxair at home depot, first filled bottle was ~$250, exchanges are ~$35 for 75/25.
Found Dustin's how to vids on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f2hU...ature=youtu.be
You jelly of my mad production skillz?Quote:
Originally Posted by Fbody383
The engine and transmission for #67 are back together... Ended up with 9 bent pushrods (somehow) to add the the carnage tally... Oh well.
Should have it back in the car and running next week. Will need to drain the old gas to make sure the dyno run on 8-Jan is clean.
oops wrong thread
The 55 is back together after six bent intake valves. Like Marshall the old fuel is gone and new 93 has taken it's place. I have no way to know for sure but the car ran perfect at Hallett and in two laps off the trailer at TWS with no changes from Hallett this happened. The only difference is fuel was added prior to TWS. Fuel that someone was nice enough to pick up for me while we were at Hallett. Either it was 87 because he was distracted or the 91 pump was pumping 87. Only other possibility is the car still has an issue. A/F ratio at TWS during those two laps was 12:0 to 12:1.Quote:
Originally Posted by marshall_mosty
JJ
Started learning about shimming T56s... and T56 countershaft preload.
Jerry, there wasn't any piston/valve contact?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fbody383
No sir! Just six completely burned up plugs and six bent intake valves. I did not find any other damage. Of course I have not been on track yet.
JJ
What compression ratio are you running Jerry?Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadowBolt
I told the builder I wanted all I could get but needed to be able to run 91 octane fuel due to our annual Hallett race. I don't remember the exact number but I think it was 10.5 to 1. I had three race weekends that it ran fine on 93 and one running 91.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trublu
JJ
How much are you going to preload, .002?Quote:
Originally Posted by Fbody383
Junkyard motor is together, hopefully it goes in the car next week. I hammered my oil pan to get it as close as possible and laid gratuitous amounts of RTV to seal the gaps :-/
I used my old heads from the blown up motor, replaced 6 or so valves out of some other heads I had laying around.
Ghetto Fabulous
Too ghetto to fail! That thing's going to run like a raped ape. I'be done 2 ghetto builds, 1 was on a 5.0 builder I got for $50. Had 7 slugs in the hole and the guy gave me 2 more with rods and no rings which I was able to source from a other junkyard motor and dropped it in. Bearings were also mixed and matched from said junkyard engine. I dremeled the rust off the valves and seats, slapped it together with a random oil pump and it never smoked or burned oil. Had a GT40P top end, HO cam, Cobra rockers, and shorty headers. Full up CMC motor, ended up getting some money for it when I junked the car.