Car is loaded on the trailer and going to the dyno tomorrow for a few days of "love".
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Car is loaded on the trailer and going to the dyno tomorrow for a few days of "love".
A little late to post, but had the car on the dyno last Friday and laid down two really nice 350/370 "max power" pulls and snapped the crankshaft behind the fourth main journal on the third pull. It all stayed together and made 180-185 psi on all cylinders even with the crank broken...piston 4/8 touched the heads, but looks like it didn't kiss any valves so as long as they are still true, we should be okay.
I decided to upgrade to the Ford Racing 302 "BOSS" block (4-bolt main and thick cylinder walls that allow for a 0.125 overbore). That coupled with a 4340 forged crank should make for what I hope to be a "lifetime" short block...
I dropped off the short block with Richard Painter today to tear it all down and figure out what we need to do. I'm planning on going with head studs this time around since the BOSS block uses 1/2" head bolts instead of the stock block 7/16" bolts.
Man you have the worse luck.
Picked up my heads today. Had some "peppered" spots on one of the heads where he engine ran lean a few rebuilds ago. Shaved it just enough to clean it up. Also ended up replacing all the intake valves, 4 exhaust valves, and the valve locks.
The flywheel/pressure plate combo was only 3 grams out of balance, so I'm going to run "as-is" since the engine is dead on zero balance.
All the "magic" will happen tomorrow when the engine is back in he car and running.
Cleaned up the garage and put the car away for the first time since November. Only 1 weekend of work really required for the next race, feels good.
Got my junk back on the lift, found gear oil all over the driver side of the axle around the panhard bar mount, turns out the 8.8 axle tube is ripped open where the LCA bracket is welded to the axle, crazy.
Suspension binding?
Are you using a PM3L?
Can you patch it? I imagine gear oil soaked in will make it a pain.
I'll just leave this here: https://www.formula1.com/en/latest/f...ge-livery.html
Paging AI132... <tap> <tap> is this thing on? AI132 where are you?
Went to get the truck inspected today.
They couldn't get either of their tests stations to talk to the computer, but I tried my own obd2 scanner and their handheld scanner, it worked fine on those.
Went down the street and their station started to connect if I wiggled their connector.
Great, so my obd2 port has a loose pin.
Take it home and start probing the pins till I find the offending one, fix it. Turns out when I did my trans flush a while ago, I shorted two pins to get the truck to go into "transmission fluid level check" mode, and the jumper I used just loosened up that one pin socket enough to piss off the inspection machine, as my own scanner apparently never uses that pin.
Get in the truck to go back but my abs/brake/VSC lights are all on.
Great, I pissed the computer off with all of the random probing and grounding of pins.
I google how to do a zero point calibration, had to disconnect battery and short two obd pins a few times in a sequence.
All lights off and head back to the station, their scanner worked but four of the emissions tests weren't ready yet so I failed.
Great, so pulling the battery causes the ECM to start over on all the readiness codes.
Went on a short trip to get the truck running for a while, stopped for gas.
All the readiness codes are good to except for the EVAP. Guess why the EVAP wouldn't reach readiness?
Because I filled up the gas tank. Most cars require something like 1/4 to 3/4 tank to cycle/test the EVAP and produce a readiness code.
Boat load of fail today.
Not sure why I even got out of bed.
Should pass with a single not ready.
Oh, I assumed they would fail unless all were ready.
Was just watching with my own scanner, haven't gone back yet.
I think you are allowed two not ready. I have driven around with the scanner attached and kept checking until it was down to two and then have it inspected again.
It passed with the EVAP not being ready. Didn't have to wiggle the obd connector this time.
Still curious which pins the state computer uses that other devices ive tried don't but glad it works.
Well, this weekend.
Apparently LS cylinder head freeze plugs can weep - who knew? Good news it's on the passenger front and easy enough to get to.
Now, why Sean thought it was a good idea to have his hoodlum friends help change a motor in an 01 AWD Tahoe still eludes me.
RE: weeping coolant passage stuff, ACDelco makes copper cooling system seal tablets for this kind of stuff.
Apparently it is SOP per GM to add a tablet per gallon or so on a new engine and keep doing a tablet per gallon replaced of coolant in the future.
I have been doing the same on my motors since a weeping freeze plug on a brand new motor caused me some greif.
First I'm shocked to find that Sean has friends.........then hoodlum friends. LOL
JJ
Engineered obsolescence? Just crazy that they don't do it "right." Sean used a socket and the press to make the freeze plug 0.015-ish bigger and a little import grey RTV...
Once that stopped leaking and a test drive found the OTHER steam crossover tube didn't seat well enough so trim the bolt a little and tighten it up. He drove it home last night. All in all not too bad a project all things considered.
Orange is Fast!
https://www.formula1.com/content/fom...7948349442.jpg
Nice! I had to check results, that's awesome. The reign of the cheater Fords is finally threatened. Today was the first time in my CMC history that I get away with 1 trip to the dyno. I suppose that just means I'm just gonna blow this motor up and start all over in a couple months. . .
This is my favorite thread on our forum. I really like that it has gone on for 300 pages.