Has anyone ever used an enclosed trailer with dual 3600 lb axles, for a CMC car? Just doing simple math, it seems like the 3600s should work, but that's probably why it's called "simple" math.
Comments very much appreciated.
thx
chris
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Has anyone ever used an enclosed trailer with dual 3600 lb axles, for a CMC car? Just doing simple math, it seems like the 3600s should work, but that's probably why it's called "simple" math.
Comments very much appreciated.
thx
chris
CMC car plus fuel jugs, tires, tools, pit bike, more tools, air conditioner, jack etc. It is human nature to fill all of your available space and it all adds up faster than you think. Given that, I am a firm believer in having more axle and tire capacity if you can.Quote:
Originally Posted by chris-CMC#35
Agree with this assessment. Spend the extra $$ on the 5200lb axles for the enclosed. For example My 20' steel open trailer weighs 2600 with 2x3500# if I recall correctly. My CMC car is about 3k sans driver puts me at 5600 before I put the support stuff on. Once I add the Tirerack I'll I be around 6200# with tires, toolbox, and car. An enclosed will weigh more empty and as Rob said you'll be more inclined to pack more junk in it. The only time I can think 3600# axles enclosed is good if your tow vehicle isn't rated for more than 7500# and you're trying to avoid being overweight per the door tag on the truck.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Liebbe
My pig of a 24' is 4600 empty so I'm an easy 8500# loaded. I need to weigh it just to see how much margin I really have. 10k GVWR was an absolute must for me and I thought the trailer would be closer to 3600 empty. I sleep in my trailer, so I keep bedding and stuff in there too. I'm actually wanting to build a flip down frame for the bed so it's out of the way durine the day. Also consider the possibility of carrying a spare engine, trans, rear end, or big ass tool box if you're hitting a major event. Having that margin is nice and the bigger axles get bigger brakes.
I'm convinced. Many thanks.
If you have the option to start from scratch, get the 5200lb. I'm currently not too fare below the 7000lb max with my open 18ft with two toolboxes, 6 fuel jugs and an 8-tire rack.
When I re-did my trailer axle setup, i really wanted to go up to 5200lbs but the cost of changing out all of my hubs/brakes/wheels wasn't worth it given that one day I will trade it for an enclosed.
Speaking of, anyone know if it's feasible to swap out mobile home axles to regular 5200lbs axles? Differing suspension mounts? I've got a line on an open trailer w/tire rack and storage but the MH axles make me nervous.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pranav
Thoughts on ease of swapping over?
Bring a tape measure.Quote:
Originally Posted by WutApex
Excellent idea, kumquat.
Trailers are dead simple devices. You can buy entire axle assemblies and mounting brackets. I think Pranav carries one on his trailer now ;) Its not so much "can it be done" rather is it worth the money and time over just buying what you want.
If you are able to get into more detail/control over choosing your axles on the new trailer, get them with e-z lube snouts.
I used to run\ regular snout axles and had a "bearing buddy" on each hub that would apply grease+pressure to the outer bearings. This is good for dipping axles in water on boat trailers, but is not a substitute for keeping the inner bearing greased well like you can with an E-Z lube axle end.
I used to take my hubs apart every season and a half or so, not sure if I'll do it as frequently now that I switched to E-Z lube axles; I pump them full of fresh grease every few tows or so.
Under:Quote:
Originally Posted by Al Fernandez
https://goo.gl/photos/ZYpJPp83EPYRj8Cp7
...and a fully dressed brake/drum/hub assembly in the box!