Any reason to not buy the cheap rotors from somewhere like oreillys. I see lmr and others listing rotors for quite a bit more.
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Any reason to not buy the cheap rotors from somewhere like oreillys. I see lmr and others listing rotors for quite a bit more.
I've been running a set of Duralast Cobra rotors from Autozone for years. The first few years we'd get the typical heat cracks and the last several years we would rotate the car forward or backward after a track outing to dissipate the heat in a separate area of the rotor. We get a full season out of the rotors including crossover events, nationals and test and tune before nationals.
For 2018 we tried a Ford manufactured rotor that was a little less money. We were able to run a full season on them minus cross over events but did run test and tune before nationals and nationals.
For Team Incidental Contact we cant argue about the durability, reliability, etc about the inexpensive brake rotors.
I run the "good" rotors that Advance sells. I've never gotten a full season out of any rotor, these are cheaper and last as long as Napa's best. Hallett is a death sentence to any parts store rotor. I showed up with brand new rotors this year and at the next event both rotors cracked. Typically I show up with rotors with a couple races on them and they die at Hallett. 2 piece rotors is on the to do list because I'm sick of keeping an ear open for a rotor about to let go in the pits.
This is my somewhat non-scientific observation - I'm sure someone else can correct me if I stray into nonsense land.
David uses the OReally rotors. We were routinely getting more than a year out of them before
they cracked a face. Near the end of life we'd see a lot of surface checking though.
A new rotor is more likely to crack at Hallett due to the extreme heat cycling that happens there.
A rotor that has been work hardened through many less-severe track sessions should be fine at Hallett.
At least that is my observation from wrenching on OiF #39. Also, a big player, again from my
experience with #39 at Hallett, is to make sure you have a nearly new brake pads on the front
rotors so the heat capacity of the pad is a little better (also more pad reduces the brake fluid
heat uptake a little bit I would think).
Just my 2¢.
When I ran the 13” Cobra setup, I used O’Reilley’s rotors and the would last an average of 3 track DAYS. After going to the floating rotor setup and 4-piston Stoptech setup, the first used set of rotor rings lasted three seasons (and never failed, were just replaced prior to a failure). The “new” set went four seasons before I parted out the car.
Just curious, assume you had brake ducts for both of those configurations.
We have had trouble getting good ducting set up on #39. I think Pranav has
one of the better duct setups for the 4th gens. I know at Hallett good
air flow across the rotors really makes a difference for heat dissipation and
in late race brake modulation, which I would bet is brake fluid temp related
as much as pad/rotor temp.
Thoughts?
I also used to burn through a set of rotors every 2 weekends when I had stock cobra rotors. Now I have cobra calipers but I upgraded to Craig's old set of 2 piece rotors when he went to AI, 1 set of rings has made it all season (had 2-3 on them when I bought them) and pad wear seems reduced. I have ducts (but not good ones). The pimpy 2 piece rotors do make a difference.
Here's the rotors I have. https://www.girodisc.com/Rotors_c_1048.html
Those with Cobra calipers and good fluid had been a good stop gap to not spending 2400 on the fancy calipers and am not giving up performance over the fancy stuff I don't think.
No doubt I don't think the Stoptech's are making anyone win that would not win with the Cobra brakes. I will tell you that once you own Stoptech brakes you will never own a car without them. I bought new rings after four years not because they were worn out but because I was afraid to try anymore. Hell they may have gone another two years.
I looked at purchasing a newly built car (Mustang built to the exact specs as Aarons) that has not raced yet and I really wanted it but the brakes were not Stoptech. I was told "but they are just as good". This one thing made me walk away. Having to add the brakes I wanted put the cost out of reach. I will never own a road race car without Stoptech brakes (or some of the other high end systems). Pads are almost twice as thick and cost half what the Cobra pads cost. Brakes are something I don't ever worry about. I bleed a little fluid (ATE Superblue) out prior to Hallett then never touch it the rest of the season. If a brake duct hose get torn or ripped off we usually don't even worry about it until prep for the next event. I hate the price and I'm not sure they should be legal on a CMC car but it sure is nice to not even think about having brake issues. I think everyone running the $2400.00 brakes will agree.
JJ
Going fast is good ... Stopping reliably is better.
Never, ever want to see this kind of thing at a CMC race ...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-NrtQOP2WFo
Thanks everyone. I have a good bit to think about now.
I would also get 2-3 weekends out of a set of rotors and pads with the Cobra setup.
With Stoptechs I replace rings every 3 years as preventative, I have never had a ring failure. Pads I usually get 5-6 events / set.
The peace of mind for safety with not cracking rotors and boiling fluid is great!!
Daniel's setup with good rings looks like a nice alternative to Stoptechs.
Another alternative would be if you could find someone parting out their car and selling their brakes. The Stoptech calipers seem to last for a very long time. I have had mine for 8 years and about 40-45 events with no issue.
Or this..
https://www.windingroad.com/articles...tement-occurs/
Granted it was a brake line failure, but losing brakes is damn scary.
This is a no brainer for me. Thanks!
Someone sent me this last year right before I went to cota. Like I did not have enough to think about the first time.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D3ZafJW8Ao0&t=4s
Not arguing with you Jerry -- I haven't yet gotten the opportunity to experience the StopTech crack so I'm not on the pipe yet. :D. I did notice a step change in braking consistency with the fancy rotors + RBF660 fluid.
From my experience the key downside to the Cobra setup is rotor consumption, the girodisc rotors fix that and the set I'm ordering a new set of rings for have gone multiple seasons as well. Pad consumption is better with the girodisc + Cobra and ducts -- though not as good as your stoptech life...or maybe I just brake like an old lady :-P.
Are you certain this wasn't her intent?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wS90LbkqOaA
Because that looks like something I'd try.
There is a guy in the For sale forum with a great deal on barely used stoptechs and rototrs