GM - cheapest way to delete emissions codes and VATS

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02-08-2015, 08:07 PM
Pranav

GM - cheapest way to delete emissions codes and VATS

Quote:

7.9.10 The PCM may be reprogramed to eliminate anti-theft/PATS/VATS as well as to eliminate emissions
controls such as rear O2 sensors, EGR, Evap, etc. Performance parameters of the tune such as ignition
and fuel maps may not be altered.

Eventually, I planning on leveraging the new allowance to permanently remove emissions/nuisance codes and delete VATS, and then have a usable check engine light.

What's the cheapest/safest way to achieve this?
02-08-2015, 10:12 PM
Suck fumes

$400 SCT Tuner.
02-09-2015, 01:02 AM
Supercharged111

That works for GM? Find a tuner and have him remove it, I'd find it impossible to believe they wouldn't do it for far less than $400. There's no thought involved, he'd be done in all of 10 minutes. I have the software to do it to LS1s.
02-09-2015, 01:42 AM
Pranav

I guess I could, but then I'd have to put the car on a trailer and tow it there.

Had a brainfart and should've thought to get it done at the dyno day...

Maybe the PST guys can do it for cheap at Cresson...
02-09-2015, 01:47 PM
Suck fumes

Should work as long as its 96-newer. I'm sure you could find someone to do it for you but it might be challenging finding someone with a computer that has that vehicles software on it.
02-09-2015, 02:47 PM
Pranav

Yeah, I neglected to mention it is in fact an OBDII setup...
02-09-2015, 03:33 PM
GlennCMC70

Anything LT1 tuning wise is few and far between. Best bet is to mail the pcm off.
Expect to pay $100 plus.
02-09-2015, 06:48 PM
Fbody383

http://howellefi.com/

I'll ask Sean the LT1 Whisperer to chime in. I think he used these guys for his LT1 test stand PCM.
02-09-2015, 11:56 PM
BlueFirePony

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pranav

Eventually, I planning on leveraging the new allowance to permanently remove emissions/nuisance codes and delete VATS, and then have a usable check engine light.

What's the cheapest/safest way to achieve this?

Our OBDII/CAN controller is read-only right now - well other than clearing ad hoc codes that is.
Depending on when "eventually" is for you we can probably help you there. Unlike Cadillac I don't think GM put that stuff behind a gateway so I think we can get to it - if there is a gateway, that'll be more work but doable. L
Let's talk at Cresson...I probably won't have time to hack it that weekend but this is something we plan to address near term.
02-10-2015, 01:03 PM
Alien

http://lt1swap.com/programming.htm

$75

*Edit* I really am estatic about this new rule. My check engine light came on sitting in grid before R1 at MSRH. Took it somewhat easy shortshifting and whatnot. Post race, pulled codes, both banks lean, found a vaccuum cap had popped off. With the old 'constant on' CEL, I'm positive I'd have ignored it at least til the end of the weekend and caused some damage. Already blown up one LT1 too many.
02-10-2015, 03:31 PM
Pranav

You're pretty much the poster child of why I want a check engine light.

I think your last motor blew due to a lean condition?
02-10-2015, 05:16 PM
ShadowBolt

Even though we turn off the master after every time we get out of the car the CEL is back on in two laps. It will be nice to know if the light comes on something is wrong.

JJ
02-10-2015, 05:18 PM
mach1

You guys are freaking me out, maybe I should wire up a CEL on my junk
02-10-2015, 06:03 PM
Pranav

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShadowBolt

Even though we turn off the master after every time we get out of the car the CEL is back on in two laps. It will be nice to know if the light comes on something is wrong.

JJ

You don't have an ignition switch? My master stays on over an entire weekend and I just kill the ECM/ignition with a dedicated switch. ECM keeps its code/memory, but more importantly the fuel trim/idle/whatever variables it learns over time. Everything gets wiped when I kill the master switch, for storage or emergencies.
02-10-2015, 06:04 PM
Alien

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pranav

I think your last motor blew due to a lean condition?

That's my theory. Upon installing the new engine, found the A/F was way off on the dyno due to either a clogged fuel filter or dying fuel pump. Changed them both and all was good.
02-10-2015, 11:47 PM
Casey_SS

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pranav

Eventually, I planning on leveraging the new allowance to permanently remove emissions/nuisance codes and delete VATS, and then have a usable check engine light.

What's the cheapest/safest way to achieve this?

2 more options worth mentioning:

1. Swap to an OBD1 computer (plugs right in, no issue), buy or build a cable (aldlcable.com) and use TunerCat software to make the changes. You just flash the OBD1 pcm with a factory 1995 tune and disable the emissions and VATS stuff. TunerCat is free to use for 30 days, you just have to pay $19 to download the $EE definition file required for it to speak LT1 F-body. This is the path I took on my car. I have a factory 1995 OBD1 tune I can email you or you can also find a copy online if you dig around a bit. http://www.tunercat.com/

2. Purchase the OBDII version of TunerCat, which was sold to Jet and re-branded as Jet Dynamic Spectrum Tuner. They were charging over $400 when I first started looking at tuning software...not sure what it costs now, their website doesn't say. www.jetchip.com

For the kind of stuff you're talking about doing, it's literally just un-checking a couple of boxes in the software. If you go the OBD1 route I can send you a screenshot of what to do...it's a piece of cake.