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My new car has the fuse pulled but all the anti-lock crap is still on the car. Since the car (even with Jay in it) is way heavy I want to remove the anti-lock system. Someone said there is a kit or something that makes it easy to remove. Any ideas? A link? Other weight savings ideas for a iron block 2002 Stang?
JJ
PM Gunter. There is a small aluminum block that replaces the pump and bolts right in...takes 20 minutes and a bleed...done. Think it was $75...Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadowBolt
Kit? Randy just bought a distribution block that goes in place of the OEM abs hardware for his LS1, so I'm sure the same thing exists for the mustang. You can do it for less money but more work by making your own lines under the hood and splicing into the factory hard lines going towards the corners.
Wilwood now has a bias adjuster knob that can move the valve remotely so you no longer have to put the valve itself within your reach, just the adjustment knob and route the cable. This means not having to make the hard line all the way to the back which might be a nice option.
That is what I was looking for.Quote:
Originally Posted by AI#97
THANKS!
JJ
You will need to know if you car had traction control or not when it was new. It makes a difference on the block as it will have one or two rear brake line outputs.
Seems to be as good a thread as any to ask my question.
Since I am definitely in the "move from TT to CMC" mode, (hey that rhymes!) I am thinking of pulling the fuse for a track day at TWS next weekend.
Any suggestions on learning to drive without antilock brakes without ruining a set of tires in the first session?
Brake early... but be sure and give a pointby before getting to the braking zone... :twisted:Quote:
Originally Posted by HoustonNW
Sorry, I couldn't resist... I'm not the one to ask... got a whole stack of square tires in the shop...
See you at TWS.. 8) Misty must have registered me yesterday... :shock: Got my email confirmation.. :roll:
Pointby? It's my first time in the white group, don't they roll like the CMC'ers? You better have your front wheel at my door or I'm going to turn in! :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by David Love AI27
But seriously, regarding the braking early, it was interesting that when Rob Liebbe rode with me in the wet during the CMC Rookie day he kept telling me to brake earlier, probably forgetting that my car still had antilock brakes. Well, at least that's what I like to think was the reason, complete lack of talent is not something that I've considered. :? So maybe that is the best piece of advice that I could get from both of you.
White?? Interesting..... Guess I'll bring my car.... and PLAY in the white group.... I was just going to instruct and leave the car at home....Quote:
Originally Posted by HoustonNW
I, with the help of the LAW, installed the alum block and the bias valve with a remote into the cockpit.Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadowBolt
For the brake system ...
http://www.burkhartchassis.com/id84.html
You will need the ABS delete block with lines AND replacement steel braided lines at the wheels and diff.
Make sure you tell them you have a Traction Control car. Reiterate how many rubber brake lines you have
that go from the diff to the car mounted hard lines. These at close to the center of the diff, next to the torque
arm.
That would be the block off plate and lines and a total of six steel braided lines for the car. I am assuming you haven't
replaced the stock rubber brake lines.
Thanks for the warning! I've been in combined yellow/white run groups before and was very comfortable giving and taking a pointby in a corner. That is 1/10 the intensity of "open passing" and 1/100 the intensity of W2W, in my opinion.Quote:
Originally Posted by David Love AI27
I learned the difference because I earned a NASA TT license and was invited to the CMC/2 Rookie Day and had Rob Liebbe in my mirrors, or as the bastage seemed to have a habit of, out of my mirrors.
So I'm going to work on learning to "feel" the brakes. I'll also go back to a little later apex (I've been driving like a d*mn Spec Miata driver).
Maybe to continue and improve my skills, I should be in the Instructor group that has open passing? Or is that session more of a reward for the actual instuctors?
The brake early is a habit of mine, just ask my competitors. I prefer to let the car roll through the corners as opposed to jamming on the brakes and upsetting the car. That's when Glenn usually passes me. When I'm instructing, it more of a self-preservation thing. Also, as the student goes faster, he will need to brake earlier to bleed off that speed.
In and out of your mirrors was part of the drill. Hopefully you will have learned that you need extra or enhanced mirrors for competition.
Wayne, the more you run w/o abs the more you will learn to feel the pedal and feel just before the tires are about to lock.
Starting off easy and then applying more pedal pressure throughout the weekend will mainly help the tires last. :)
Start off by braking early (keeping the tires safe) and focus on corner exit. As you start to get more confident in your corner exit then start braking later while keeping the same exit speed.
If you happen to get a flat spot, just move it to the back and do a burnout! :lol:
+1; and then it will rain. :shock:Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelmosty
Seat time and pads make a difference. I made a front brake change over the winter and now need to dial out more rear as I'm getting used the car.
The good news is, the terror of being in front of most of these guys will "help" you brake deeper.
I thought it was catching a rabbit that made you faster???Quote:
Originally Posted by Fbody383
No....you never caught a rabbit and you ain't no friend of mine.Quote:
Originally Posted by David Love AI27
JJ
Come own yo ol' hound dawg, git it rite:Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadowBolt
"you AIN'T never caught a rabbit..."
Half these guys got no ideer watt yer talkin' 'bout...