Rear axle seal leak - saved my life......

At MSR-C I was getting reports of smoke. Turned out to be a failed axle seal on the drivers side. Inside of the wheel was soaked w/ diff fluid as well as the caliper and rotor. Took things apart last weekend and rounded up the parts to fix it. Got it all back together less the diff fluid and happened to take a look at the axle flange where it meets the hub centric. Big crack all the way around. These are known to fail. Glad I saw it before TWS. I knew I was running on borrowed time w/ the OEM axles. Glad I didn't borrow too much. I'll be out some RTV and a gasket and a dab of locktight. Better than any other end result I can think of had it failed.

Link to a thread Richard startedon another forum. Mine is failing the same way.
http://www.corner-carvers.com/forums...ht=axle+flange

Any pics?

No pics. Failure looks just like the ones in the link. Cracked at the 90 degree transition of the wheel centric hub and flange where the studs are.

I remember that thread that Richard posted. That's why I went with Superior axles to replace my OEM axles back in 2008.

Good info. Ill be checking mine now. Is this the same rear end from your wrecked car? From your link seemed like there are issues with aftermarket axles too?

It is the same rear I've been using since 2005. This is a common failure that does not seem to be accident related.

I posted pictures of my failure on this forum too:

http://www.aicmctexas.com/main/showt...Flange-Failure


Richard P.

Update - both sides were cracked. I swapped in some back-ups for now. Aftermarket ones are on the short list for my off season.

Kind of scary for sure... .I have mine out and all looked good. I did have to replace a bent axle a couple of years ago though from side to side contact.

Pics?

Something like this:

Found another crack. PHB mount on the axle side was cracked. The vertical face towards the inside of the axle was 100% cracked. This is also another known problem for 3rd/4th gens. Put your eyes on these parts often. I've welded up a few over the years.
Also - the weld didn't fail, the bracket did in the HAZ. Another example of these cars are being pushed harder than the material has the strength for.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GlennCMC70

Another example of these cars are being pushed harder than the material has the strength for.

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What would be good wording for a rule change request allowing reinforcement of the mounting locations? What would be the fear of allowing this?

I think it is allowed. I did this for Jeff Burch back in the day when he ran w/ us for this very reason.
Check the rules...... or post this same request over on the National site.

Ok. Remind me how to check this again. I have never pulled out an axle on a solid axle. Only CV axles on the front diff of the wifes lexus. I have the caliper and bracket off right now so I figured I should check. Looks like I need to inspect the outside lip of the axle. Do I just take out the 4 bolts on the backside of the axles that maybe called the backing plate? Does that whole piece come off so I can inspect closer?
I did a good nut/bolt on the car last night. Also swapped the rear swaybar endlinks. For some reason I had endlinks on the rear that were longer and had a taller spacer than the ones in the front-kind of wonder how that will impact things.
For the record, 700/225 springs with 32 mm and 19 mm---anything wrong with that setup or suggestion to try the 21 mm rear bar?

I doubt that the 4 bolts on the backing plate will get you anywhere. You have to remove the diff cover, and then depending on your diff style (torsen, auburn etc) remove whatever's keeping the axles apart. On the auburn there's a sideways bolt with a 5/16 head, holding a round pin. The Torsen has large block-like thing seperating the axle shafts.
One you have that out, push both axles inward, and remove the c-clip with a magnet. Then, they'll each slide out.

A Ford 9" axle can be removed like you were originally thinking.

I have a spare set of LS1 axles (free) if anyone wants them. They're stock. Just switched to hardened axles.

I'll reverse my earlier statement, and say that maybe you can see the crack with the backing plate off, if it's cracked near the flange.
http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.p...=5876&hl=crack

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dulaney

I doubt that the 4 bolts on the backing plate will get you anywhere. You have to remove the diff cover, and then depending on your diff style (torsen, auburn etc) remove whatever's keeping the axles apart. On the auburn there's a sideways bolt with a 5/16 head, holding a round pin. The Torsen has large block-like thing seperating the axle shafts.
One you have that out, push both axles inward, and remove the c-clip with a magnet. Then, they'll each slide out.

A Ford 9" axle can be removed like you were originally thinking.

I have a spare set of LS1 axles (free) if anyone wants them. They're stock. Just switched to hardened axles.

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Thanks Jim-I will take those axles as a spare if you don't mind. Also, that driveshaft loop I got from you doesn't fit (found out last night). It isn't wide enough for the bolt holes where it mounts-wonder if it is for a 3rd gen or another vehicle?

I'll inspect it closer tonight or at least on the outside. I looked last night but couldn't tell if there was a crack or just some surface rust where the hub meets the flange.

Man, sorry it didn't fit. Good thing it was only $5! Weird that Jegs sells it as a 4th gen part.
Can it be modified easily by adding on extension arms?

Yeah, I'll bring those axles to Hallett, unless you find that you need them sooner. I'm robbing the ABS reluctors off of them.

You only need to remove the rotor to check for the crack.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GlennCMC70

You only need to remove the rotor to check for the crack.

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And scrub the front and back of the axle flange with a brush to clean off anything that might be hiding a crack...


Richard P.