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I've finally taken the plunge on cheater brakes in search of more consistency. When I had the rotors tightish the hats had a little play, but since I've loctited them and torqued them down that's no longer the case. Does the play come back with some use? My hardware didn't include the wave washers, so I'm thinking it should be the race version.
I just replaced the rings and had the same issue. I measured everything and they should still move but they do not. I had new bolts but used old flat washers and I assumed the old washers may have no longer been flat. Stoptech did change the design of the rings (no more counterbore) but the hats should still move a little. Mine did not. I have not looked at them since ECR last weekend but I will soon.Quote:
Originally Posted by Supercharged111
Jerry
I cannot answer the question but make sure you follow the mounting instructions. A couple years ago I watched a Honda S2000 right in front of me fly off a hard braking corner at 135 mph. I later asked one of his competitors (that I knew) what happened. He told me the guy had just installed new rotor rings and simply tightened the bolts up without paying attention to the torque requirements or the lock-tight usage. The guy hit the brakes and although the rotors stopped.......the bolts broke and were no longer connected to the hats!
Lock-Tight and a torque wrench was used. I took mine apart three times and nothing changed.
Dustin, like Jerry, I just put on new rotor rings and ran them for the 1st time this last weekend. The kit I bought came with the race hardware with the flat washers. When I put everything together initially the ring was solid to the hat and would not move at all. We took measurements and found out all tolerances were exact so we noticed the hat had just a slight bit of buildup near the holes so we took an air sanding disc and removed the buildup with a quick zap that probably removed .001-.002 of dirt and when I put them back together it gave the tiny jingle I was expecting to hear.
The new rings worked perfectly with not one instance of knock-back all weekend.
You definitely need to follow the bed-in procedures. I had totally forgotten how terrible the brakes were for the first couple of laps until the pad compound can be deposited onto the rings.
Rotor #2 I did by the book. Not 1 hour later it had movement, so I dissected rotor #1. I let the loctited wick in too long and it had dried so I zapped it with the 1/4" impact the first time. Some of the pins had made tiny divots in the hat itself. I disassembled and cleaned the hardware and reassembled like the second rotor. Any pins that didn't move I was able to tap on them to rotate them and get them to move. It seemed that holding the pin against the hat with one hand while spinning the torque wrench with the other was the ticket. I'm going to do a practice day before race weekend to validate the new setup prior to leaning on it competitively. Hopefully all goes well.
On Friday I went out in the first session of practice and put a transfer layer on the new rings. Only two laps using the Stoptech written method for bedding in new pads or rings. I used the last half of the second lap to let everything cool down without touching the brakes. I did the same driving to my pit area. I turn off the engine and coast into the pit and let the clutch out (in gear) to stop the car so that the pads are not touching the rings. An hour and a half later in the second session the breaks worked great. Like Michael the brakes were not good the first time out on new rings. Stoptech says if you can to break in new pads with old rings and new rings with old pads. At $550.00 for two new rings I want to do it as per their instructions.
JJ
I have old Hawk DTC70, but don't think that's conducive to getting Raybestos ST45 bedded in. I'm starting from scratch. I remember Dan bedding some new pads at Hallett before, they were rolling smoke and stunk to high heaven! I've not experienced it to that degree, but again that's what Friday's for. I'll take it easy my first session and expect it to suck.
There are lots of different formulations of brake pads and they do different things when they are bedded in. The R4's that we used to run would boil off binders when they got hot for the first time. This gas gets forced out between the pad and the rotor and you have no brakes while this is happening so you need to be ready for that. After that, the brakes work fine.
Some pads work by depositing a layer of material on the rotor, some don't. Some different pad compounds are compatible with other compounds, some are very much not. I bought my Stoptech kit used and my pads were incompatible with what the previous owner had used. After a bit of use, I picked up a nasty vibration that bounced the steering wheel out of my hands and made the car undrivable. I do not recommend bedding in with a different compound than you are planning on running.
Richard P.
Please tell me where you are getting 2 rings for $550????Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadowBolt
I actually found mine for $216 / side with the race hardware, THMotorsports. Just search for 31536110187 for the other side.Quote:
Originally Posted by t500hps
https://thmotorsports.com/7585529-st...saAnZpEALw_wcB
Thanks......ordered some last month for $55 a piece more :(Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelmosty
WAIT......What's the difference between the last 2 digits?
31.536.1102.87
vs
31.536.1102.99
The later, (.99) is what I've always searched for and they are $358 on that same website.
The 99 is the standard hardware and the 87 is the race hardware.
Wow. Stoptech is spensive. My Coleman rotors are $88 each. DTC60 pads $225. You get what you pay for most of the time so my stuff probably isn’t as good but it’s slows me down enough I guess.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 64GunPilot
I ran PBRs and white box rotors for several years. I do not think I stop any better with Stoptechs. I do use a much less aggressive pad now and I get a year plus out of the rotors. (With PBRs the pads and rotors were trash after every weekend).
i also noticed the .99 come up as a stoptech part number while the .87 come up as a Centric part number......wonder if there is a material difference??? (how long do these rotors typically last for you guys?)Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelmosty
I usually go four years on a set of rings. That is five to six events per year. The rings have never failed (cracked other than just small surface cracks) but I worry about them around four years 20-24 race weekends.
JJ
I've been running Corvette calipers and parts store rotors since 2013. I don't expect any increase in performance aside from consistency and not worrying about rotors cracking. I go through 2 sets a season on the parts store rotors.
I asked Stoptech that a while back. The only difference is that the non-race hardware doesn't include the wave washers to reduce brake rotor rattle.Quote:
Originally Posted by t500hps
Correct. I have to wonder if those wave washers adversely affect the flotation of the ring vs hat?Quote:
Originally Posted by fscott