Results 1 to 3 of 3

Thread: Moroso switch panels...

  1. #1
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    College Station, TX
    Posts
    4,578

    Moroso switch panels...

    I have a 5 circuit plus starter button switch panel I bought from Moroso last year and has been collecting dust. Looking to use this to replace my missing ignition switch and was wanting input if the components are of a reliable quality. They look pretty good but I don't want to be chasing gremlins after putting this in the car.

    Thanks!

    Matt
    Ah, fugg it.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Grass-Passer Boudy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Southlake, TX
    Posts
    672
    Not a bad idea. The switches used on most of the aftermarket panels are mid-level down in quality. However, they'll do just fine for the application. Grimlens are more often caused by poor installation than components. Make sure to solder and heat shrink all connections and avoid any crimp connectors. Crimps are one of the most common places for intermitent problems to arise. Also ensure that the panel is fed with a single line that is capable of carrying everything that will be fed by the panel. See voltage drop formula below. You'll probably want to feed the panel from the cut-off switch, not the battery. Use an inline fuse on this main feed line and fuse it at no more than 10% of maximum current draw. Fuse needs to be no more than 12 inches from the source(switch). Make sure that the output of each switch is fused and use the 10% rule to size them.

    Another tip is to wire the starter button so that you can spin the motor with the ignition turned off. This is helpful setting valves and stuff and stuff because you can bump the motor without if starting. Also helps to start a hot engine that has alot of timing in it.

    Also, here's a dirty formula to make sure your feed wire is big enough.

    Gauge Loss x Current x Lenth = Voltage Loss

    Gauge Losses:
    10 gauge = .002 V per foot/per amp
    12 gauge = .0032 V per foot/per amp
    14 gauge = .005 V per foot/per amp
    16 gauge = .008 V per foot/per amp

    This means that if you try to use 14 gauge wire to run 20 amps for 20 feet here's what you'll drop:

    .005 V x 20 AMPS x 20' = 2 Volts Lost

    Hope you're not feeding your ignition with that run... :lol: :lol:

    Boudy

  3. #3
    Senior Member Grass-Passer Boudy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Southlake, TX
    Posts
    672
    Oh...

    Sorry about your trailer. I know the feeling.

    Boudy

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •