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Thread: 3rd Gen Master Kill Switch Problems

  1. #11
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby
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    Quote Originally Posted by GlennCMC70

    read the CCR Matt.
    the official stance of mine and Al's is what the CCR says.
    I guess I am confused as it appeared he was telling you that you were wrong? Am I missing something? I did get a C in Reading Comprehension but that was because I never went to class, not that I couldn't read well...?

    Secondly, I would love for someone in tech to check for ANYTHING being powered once the car shut off!!! :lol: We all know good and well it isn't checked and by Al's theory, I guess I would need a separate battery for an electronically actuated fire system. Now THERE is a creative way to add ballast!!! :lol: Not that a lot of guys run electronic fire systems...

    And for the record, my Master switch kills everything because it's too much of a pain in the ass to wire in the PCM memory ONLY... it would be nice, but it is easier to just reset the car for each dyno run so the "learned" numbers remain consistant.
    Ah, fugg it.

  2. #12
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby GlennCMC70's Avatar
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    Matt, you need to take a class in wiring 101. no need for two batterys in order to keep electronic fire systems active w/ the switch off.

    i telling you that the OFFICIAL way to do this is how the CCR says to do it. i also told you how i did mine. the PCM Bat circuit is the only one hot w/ the switch off. play at your own risk.

    i also know of cars that only die when the switch is turned is is due to it killing the fuel pump only. it passes the "throw the switch" test, but not the written rule.

  3. #13
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby
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    I have two kill switches, one next to my shifter and one on passenger side at the window... kinda hard to have a single switch accessible from BOTH sides of the car... when I bought the car my switch only killed the fuel pump and battery but the car still ran because the ignition was still hot from the alternator and since it has a carb it would run on the fuel still in the bowls... rewired it to kill alt and batt...

  4. #14
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby GlennCMC70's Avatar
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    just for reference reasons - if you take the output of the alt and wire it to the battery side of the kill switch, the car will die when its switched off.
    simple.
    if you have the alt output wired to any other place, the car can and likely will keep running.

  5. #15
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby Adam Ginsberg's Avatar
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    Glenn is spot on regarding this. It's the exact problem I had with my CMC car when I brought it home from NH in 2003 - it wouldn't die when the MS was thrown.

    To properly fix the issue, I used a relay, controlled by the master switch, to kill the alt.

  6. #16
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby donovan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GlennCMC70
    just for reference reasons - if you take the output of the alt and wire it to the battery side of the kill switch, the car will die when its switched off.
    simple.
    if you have the alt output wired to any other place, the car can and likely will keep running.
    That is how I wired mine, very simple and works everytime I cut the switch.

    DD

  7. #17
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby GlennCMC70's Avatar
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    being an electron chaser has its advantages.

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