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Thread: 4.6 Cam Swap

  1. #1
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby Rob Liebbe's Avatar
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    4.6 Cam Swap

    4.6 Experts -

    How hard is it to swap out a set of cams on a 4.6 2 valve?

    Do you have to remove the front cover?

    Are the timing chains a pain?

    Are the gaskets a pain?

    etc?
    Rob Liebbe - Texas Region
    Camaro, Mustang, doesn't matter to me, I'll race it.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Grass-Passer Jeremy Gunter's Avatar
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    as far as I know you have to remove both the front cover and the valve covers. the gaskets are reusable.
    The chain tension/guides must also go...
    Mosty Brothers' Racing
    #22 CMC2
    I have groupies...

  3. #3
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby RichardP's Avatar
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    Don't forget special tools...


    Richard P.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby
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    no special tools required, front cover doesn't HAVE to come off but I recommend it. about a 4 hour job for me, 7 hours for a newb. What cams are they going to...? Anything past a "stage 1" is going to need valve springs.

    Chains are easy, I could do them in my sleep. chilton manuals explain it pretty well. Beware on big cams on 96-98 2V's as there can be PTV clearance issues. 4V's are a little tougher, but it's just more parts.

    There is a nice trick on the cam followers I could clue you in on but you have to be standing at the motor with a medium sized common screw driver. Makes working on a SBC seem like brain surgery!

    PM me if you have any questions....

    Edit: All gaskets are reusable...just dab RTV on them where they cross the block/head line and put a little under the cam cover gaskets where it crosses the front cover/head.

    There are a lot of bolts on the front cover...be sure to mark their locations...21 of them I think.
    Ah, fugg it.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Grass-Passer edrock96GT's Avatar
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    Rob,

    This may be a dead thread but if it isn't:

    I've found out a way to swap cams that is incredibly easy and doesn't involve removing the front cover. the only things you should have to remove (besides the cam covers) are the intake tube and the coil packs (if equipped).

    Once everything is removed and with the engine stabilized (transmission in gear), I start by breaking the cam gear bolt loose, but not removed.

    I then loosen the cam girdle bolts, this must be done slowly and in an even pattern to avoid snapping the camshaft (I use about a 1/4 turn for the first few passes) until the valve spring pressure is relieved (the followers should start falling off the valves). Once there is no pressure you can finish removing the bolts.

    Mark the cam and chain to keep the timing in case it gets shifted (it shouldn't, but just to make sure). You should then be free to remove the gear from the cam (the chain tensioners will pull the front of the cam down slightly), this step may require a little finessing since the cam gear won't go very far forward, but it will clear.

    Stick a screwdriver or something through the gear or under the chain to prevent it from sliding down inside the timing cover (it shouldn't, but just a precaution) while you go fetch the new cams.

    Verify your marks are aligned and insert the new cam into the gear, hand tighten the bolt.

    Place whatever followers onto the valves that do not have cam lobes interfering and start the gridle bolts (you may not be able to get the ones towards the rear yet, tighten the farthest bolts enough to allow the last ones to grab, if it's more than a full turn or so, hit them all in sequence to keep even pressure). Once the bolts get a good bite, you can rotate the engine to get the last 2 or 3 followers installed (you may not be able to place them by hand but you can line them up with the tip just short of the lifter and "pop" them in place using a pry bar or large screwdriver.

    Finish tightening the girdle bolts and torque to specs, move to the other bank, rinse/repeat!

    This method takes me about 3 hours, not rushing and usually with a beer in hand. I may have omitted a few details as I am not near my car at the moment, apply common sense as needed :wink:

    Hope this helps!
    Eddie Rock

    #21 AI '96 GT

  6. #6
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby
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    Yep...that is the method I don't recommend....to easy to lose the cam timing when you are a newb...
    Ah, fugg it.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by AI#97
    Yep...that is the method I don't recommend....to easy to lose the cam timing when you are a newb...
    In other words, welcome to the AI/CMC forum Eddie - since I am leaving I know Matt can't wait for a new Rookie to take my place!

    Matt, you are gonna have to work on that kissing babies and shaking hands thing if you want to be president!!
    :wink:

  8. #8
    Senior Member Grass-Passer edrock96GT's Avatar
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    Brian,

    Saw your number and it finally clicked! How ya been man? Thanks for the welcome
    Eddie Rock

    #21 AI '96 GT

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by edrock96GT
    Brian,

    Saw your number and it finally clicked! How ya been man? Thanks for the welcome
    Great buddy!
    Ooops just noticed your email that you are not back for a while...well...we can both troll this forum I guess....

  10. #10
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueFirePony

    Matt, you are gonna have to work on that kissing babies and shaking hands thing if you want to be president!!
    :wink:
    Yeah, I am still shaking babies and expecting my subjects to kiss my hand. I may change my campaign to MFW 4 Dictator N 12'. Only dictators can really achieve sweeping change and put an end to bullshit! :lol:
    Ah, fugg it.

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