help from the blue oval guys

[David Love AI27]

I installed the longer lower control arms on Amber's car last night. My questions are:

1.) Is there enough tread on the rack to safely adjust out the tie rods, if not what is the solution?

2.) The sway bar links are further out on the new arms. My solution would be to redrill new holes for the links to match the sway bar. Any other solution?

3.) Should I keep the plastic inner fenders? Is it legal to remove them? Why would I want to leave them on?

4.) Found badly cracked brake lines. Is there a good braided steel line replacement?

Please post your opinions

[David Love AI27]

1.) Is there enough tread on the rack to safely adjust out the tie rods, if not what is the solution?

opps i ment "thread"

[Adam Ginsberg]

1.) Is there enough tread on the rack to safely adjust out the tie rods, if not what is the solution?

Purchase a bumpsteer kit. You'll need it when you lower the car. Order a kit from Maximum Motorsports.

2.) The sway bar links are further out on the new arms. My solution would be to redrill new holes for the links to match the sway bar. Any other solution?

For CMC, you cannot redrill sway bar mounting holes in the A-arms. I ran into the same problem - it takes a bit, but you can bolt them back up.

3.) Should I keep the plastic inner fenders? Is it legal to remove them? Why would I want to leave them on?

You are permitted to remove them in CMC. Minor weight loss. Toss up in keeping or losing them.

4.) Found badly cracked brake lines. Is there a good braided steel line replacement?

I would not run anything less than SS brake lines - period. For a Ford, utilizing the Cobra/PBR setup front and rear, the Earl's part numbers to do a complete SS replacement are:

(2) 10" rear caliper lines 63010110
(1) 8" rear axle lines 63010108
(2) 16" front caliper lines 63010116
(4) -3AN to 7/16-24 IF hard-to-flex adapt 989549
(4) -3AN 10mm .425" banjos 997631
(1) -3AN 3/8" .425" axle hop banjo 997603
(1) Tee, 3/8"-24 IF brass 972050
(1) adapter for tee, -3AN to 3/8-24 IF 581531

Last time I bought lines ( last year ), I believe the 8" axle hop line ( goes from the body to the axle ) was discontinued/no longer available. I simply bought 3 10" lines instead.

Russell also makes a complete 5-line kit, ( Russell part # 693350 ), but I have no direct experience with it.

[marshall_mosty]

I would stay away from Russell. That is what was giving me heartburn before MSR-H. I had a line go south backing off the trailer!!

I'm going to completely re-do the lines before the next event just to be safe.

[David Love AI27]

MM has a brake line kit manufactured by stop tech for around $125 and the tappered bumpsteer kit. I will attach the swaybar links to the exhisting points and may remove the inner fenders just for ease of access.

Next questions:

1.) The 27 car has a vacuum canister (i believe it is because of the radical cam). Do you guy run an extra canister? I am taking small steps with this car as funds are available and I am focusing on brake safety at the moment. Not looking to spend $1K on brake upgrades, just want the stock system to be as safe as possible for Amber and Jason.

2.) The previous owner installed an 8.8 with rear disc but I think the rearend sat in water or sat for a long time with moisture and all the bearings in the rearend are pitted. The bearings and races are no problem but there is pitting on the axles. Jegs has press-on rear "safety hubs" mfg by Strange that press on the axles and eliminate the "C" clips. Not too sure about eliminating the "C" clips with the side loads on the rearend. Any thoughts?

Thanks Adam and Marshall... made two big decisions tonight based on your input....

[Adam Ginsberg]

Definitely order your parts from MM - they have great customer service, and really know their stuff.

The CMC car should not need an additional vacuum canister, since you are required to run a stock cam.

As for other brake upgrades, find a set of 99+ front brakes ( cheaper than the full 12" Cobra/PBR setup, to get you going for now ), as well as 1994-1998 GT or Cobra rear discs.

Be VERY careful when purchasing what's called "C-clip eliminators". Most are designed for drag racing, and cannot handle the side loads associated with road racing. Save your $$ - stock C-clips are fine for our racing. If your axles are that badly pitted, consider a set of stock replacements, or a set of Moser's.

[macstang]

I have a set of 99+ calipers that will be for sale soon.

I have many other mustang things that are always for sale.

Post your other needs for your CMC car.

[David Love AI27]

I have a set of 99+ calipers that will be for sale soon.

Great, let me know when you can part with them. I'm not in any hurry.

I have many other mustang things that are always for sale.

Post your other needs for your CMC car.

My needs are many... LOL... This car was raped by a guy who wanted to make it into a drifting car. The money he spent was a TOTAL waste. I'll keep you posted as I go through the car. thanks

[oz98cobra]

Regarding the front anti-roll bar - it is legal in CMC to run any stock factory bar from 79 to 04 - so a better solution than using the Fox bar on SN95 control arms is to source a couple of SN95 bars of different sizes from junkyards.

We still need to get to this on CMC #5 sometime....

[Rob Liebbe]

[quote="David Love AI27"]

3.) Should I keep the plastic inner fenders? Is it legal to remove them? Why would I want to leave them on?

If you remove the inner fenders you will get rock marks pushing up from the bottom of the fender top as rocks that sling off of the tires impact the underside of the fenders. Depends on how nice you want to keep those fender tops. After my paint job, I sprayed the bottom of the fenders with spray on bed liner. I put about 2 cans on each side.

If you leave the inner fender liners, take out the screw at the top/centerline of the wheel well that hold the liner in. It can make bad gouges in your tires.