As some may know, myself and Derek shared more than a near death experience on Friday's rainy practice session. My right front connected with his left front after his off in T5 in R3. My camber got pushed in a little and the caster all the way, so I was a deal or 2 off and just came into tech. For R4 I got symmetrical camber and reset toe, the car went .6 seconds faster too. Now I'm in my garage checking caster, because the car pulls to the left. Lo and behold tonight I find 3.8 on the left side and 4.8 on the right. I also find, via a possibly erroneous method, that the left wheelbase is 1/8" longer than the right. I dropped a plumb bob off the rear of the front tire and the front of the rear and measured that distance, with the straightness of the front wheels eyeballed. I'd really like a more scientific method than that, but can't seem to find one. Same with caster, I eyeballed the center and marked 15 degrees off of there either way to measure my caster. At this point, both caster bolts are maxxed but I'd hate to dumb the right side down to 3.8 just to make the car track straight. I'm kicking myself now that I never checked my caster before so my baseline now is on a possibly tweaked car. I've already hogged out the UCA mount holes on the left side and I still had to max out the lower adjustment slot to get 2.2 degrees of camber. I suppose I could loosen the k member and try pushing it to the right to decrease my lower camber adjustment in an attempt to gain some left caster? If all the frame goodies are OK and it turns out I bent a spindle, well, it seems to have made my caster better so to change or not to change is the question?