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Thread: MSR-C - Lets get signed up!

  1. #71
    Senior Member Rookie Cody Powell's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fulcrumaero View Post
    LS
    Richard's Machine shop in Euless

    What's wrong....still trying to figure that out. At MSR-H, on lap one, my oil pressure suddenly dropped to zero, and the motor locked up before I could pull off. The engine had a light-rebuild, and only had about 5 hours of dyno time on it.
    After I took apart the engine, rod bearing #4 had spun, and 1-6 were heavily scored. The oil-pump (previously new) had zero signs of wear, and had no contaminates in it. The oil pan was full of bearing shavings, and the pump pickup screen had shavings on it, but none made it into the pump. I didn't find shavings anywhere on the top end. I keep forgetting to cut apart my oil filter to examine it.
    So, I'm not sure if low oil pressure lead to the rod bearing failure, or if the bearings killed the oil pressure. If not the bearings fault, I'm not sure what to blame.

    My crank was warped, and is being replaced with a used unit. The block is currently being line-bored (I hope).
    Did you use ARP Rod bolts? Their instructions say you need to resize the rod ends after torquing them to spec. I have read of similar failures to yours when skipping this step and I have read about guys having no problems when skipping this step. Not saying this is what happened just throwing it out there, also this doesn't explain the lack of shavings anywhere other than the pan?
    We have been using katech rod bolts specifically because they don't require this step.
    Good luck with your motor, I hope you make it to Cresson
    Just hangin' with the dudes from Texas.

  2. #72
    Yes, I did use APR rod bolts, as was suggested by a couple of people. I did not know that the rods should be resized, since they install from the cap side. My machinist also believes this to be the cause. Great info for the future, thanks!

    Block was not ready yesterday...boo
    they have some pro 5.0 build that's more important. It's not Richards fault per say. He had to sub contract the line-bore, as he's unable to do it for aluminum blocks (weird).

    I'll still swing by on Saturday for a bit.
    Jim Dulaney
    AI 117

  3. #73
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby mitchntx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fulcrumaero View Post
    I put a new o-ring on it, and I doubt I screwed up such a simple thing.
    I appreciate your thoughts though.

    Might surprise you how easy it is to do and how many times it happens.
    Very common occurence with results just as you describe ... fine for a while then catastrophic loss of oiling. 5 & 6 carry the brunt of the damage because they are last to get oiled.

  4. #74
    Senior Member Grass-Passer Alien's Avatar
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    Cody, what hours will you have the table set up for autographs and photos? I want to beat the crowds and get my February issue of Grassroots Motorsports magazine signed.
    - Gary R.
    '86 Camaro Z28 "KNOCKER"

  5. #75
    I just might make it...

    Question for you guys - how do you break in a motor in a car that can't be driven on the street.

    I picked up the block last night, assembled it, and got it in the car. Still a lot to do.
    Jim Dulaney
    AI 117

  6. #76
    Senior Member Grass-Passer MikeP99Z's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fulcrumaero View Post
    Question for you guys - how do you break in a motor in a car that can't be driven on the street.
    I idle it for a few minutes, check oil pressure and water temp, then I back it out of the trailer, put it in 1st, rev it up, sidestep the clutch and hope for the best.

    Hope that helps.

  7. #77
    I was hoping someone with a lot more engine knowledge than me would say that! lol Warm it up and put it on the pole.
    Al Fernandez

  8. #78
    Senior Member Grass-Passer Alien's Avatar
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    I suppose you could chock the front wheels and put the rear end on jack stands and slowly go up thru the gears. I've done this on cold cold dyno days to warm up the trans and diff before going WOT. Maybe drag the brakes to put some load on the engine.
    - Gary R.
    '86 Camaro Z28 "KNOCKER"

  9. #79
    Senior Member Grass-Passer Casey_SS's Avatar
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    Might be overkill but here's what I would do:
    1. Start engine and check for leaks, good oil pressure, etc.
    2. Bring it up to ~2000rpm and hold it there for a few minutes after the temp stabilizes. The idea is to heat cycle the valve springs before they see race conditions.
    3. Change oil
    4. In first practice session, repeatedly run it up to 5k or so, let off and coast down to 3k. The idea is to make sure the rings are fully seated....shouldn't take much with modern rings.
    5. Go race and hope for the best.
    2012 NASA-TX American Iron Champ
    AI #29

  10. #80
    Senior Member Grass-Passer edrock96GT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fulcrumaero View Post
    I just might make it....
    Sweet! That would be 4. Any one else? DL, wanna switch to AI??
    Eddie Rock

    #21 AI '96 GT

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