Why can't a Mustang run a torque arm?

[marshall_mosty]

you guys are funny.....you should try owning BOTH a Camaro and a Mustang. You start to have these type of conversations with yourself.

Okay, now I did get a chuckle out of that...

[Rsmith350]

We should pick a charity and do a fun run with all mustangs for 20 and all camaros for twenty. Would be fun to watch

[Rsmith350]

2. INTENT
The intent of the Camaro Mustang Challenge (CMC) racing series is to provide National Auto Sport Association (NASA) members a racing series featuring production American pony cars. Modifications will be limited to those necessary to promote safety, close competition, and flexibility to enable drivers to learn and experiment with the principles of race car setup within boundaries intended to limit expenses, thereby providing the drivers with fun, exciting, and challenging yet approachable racing.

I don't see anything about making ANY platforms equal. Isn't that called spec piñata?

[David Love AI27]

Not sure why you say that. There is a parts list for the upgrade. No different that the Fox/SN-95 upgrades. It is a far better option than just quitting. If I had a 3rd gen, I would run a carb 350 or an LT1.

You just proved my point that the rules change elimiated a stock TPI... Every OPTION you mention is going to cost me money that I don't have...

[scopx]

Have waded through this Torque Arm discussion to see if repairs were made on OP vehicle. Pardon me if I missed it somewhere.
Concerning the 110 welder-they do not have enough "beans" (amperage).
The base metal is more than likely an alloy that is coated (dipped) with rust preventative (most likely a proprietary galvanised solution) and then painted.
I would not recommend heating with torch as it possibly could weaken metal beyond affected areas.
It is necessary to grind through the coating to get to good metal for welding.
In looking at the pics, it did not appear that the welder had any sort of protective gas around the heat affected zone (HAZ) to protect metal while cooling. He could have been using fluxed wire which is nasty to work with, leaving lots of splatter.
Having said all that, it is necessary to use 220 Mig with either 75(argon)/25 (CO2) or 100% Argon shielding gas.
Welder might to experiment with different filler wires to determine correct for alloy. But any good body shop should know correct number.
Recommend welder (and owner of vehicle) consider a little "gusseting" on replacement parts, if it will pass tech.
Sorry if preaching to choir here.
Tom

[GlennCMC70]

Have waded through this Torque Arm discussion to see if repairs were made on OP vehicle. Pardon me if I missed it somewhere.
Concerning the 110 welder-they do not have enough "beans" (amperage).
The base metal is more than likely an alloy that is coated (dipped) with rust preventative (most likely a proprietary galvanised solution) and then painted.
I would not recommend heating with torch as it possibly could weaken metal beyond affected areas.
It is necessary to grind through the coating to get to good metal for welding.
In looking at the pics, it did not appear that the welder had any sort of protective gas around the heat affected zone (HAZ) to protect metal while cooling. He could have been using fluxed wire which is nasty to work with, leaving lots of splatter.
Having said all that, it is necessary to use 220 Mig with either 75(argon)/25 (CO2) or 100% Argon shielding gas.
Welder might to experiment with different filler wires to determine correct for alloy. But any good body shop should know correct number.
Recommend welder (and owner of vehicle) consider a little "gusseting" on replacement parts, if it will pass tech.
Sorry if preaching to choir here.
Tom

I'll disagree w/ a couple things here and move on.
A 110 welder is plenty when dealing w/ body sheetmetal and floorpans. My 135amp is rated to 1/8" (.125"). I haven't come across any unibody cars using material that thick yet.
Heating the metal to burn off the coating is OK as long as you don't heat the metal too much. The goal is to burn off the coating and not make the metal glow red. Grinding is OK but the dust from doing so still contains the "stuff" your trying to remove and this will still cause welding issues. It is easy to remove too much material as well when grinding. Once you see yellow sparks, you have gone deep enough. Acessing the area could be an issue as well w/ a grinder. Welding on the face of clean metal that is still coated w/ the coating on the backside will cause the "outgassing" that will affect the weld. It is less likely, but still possible.

[BryanL]

Jerry-why don't you be the guinea pig for this and see what happens? http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...09b840b690017c

[ShadowBolt]

Jerry-why don't you be the guinea pig for this and see what happens? http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...09b840b690017c

I would rather try this.

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...09b840b690017c

Who knows how much if any these things would help the handling of my car?


JJ

[BryanL]

I would rather try this.

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...09b840b690017c

Who knows how much if any these things would help the handling of my car?


JJ

Great-then I want to be able to have a similar setup and should be allowed this.
http://www.unbalancedengineering.com/Camaro/TA/

[marshall_mosty]

Great-then I want to be able to have a similar setup and should be allowed this.
http://www.unbalancedengineering.com/Camaro/TA/

Coil over struts versus a decoupled torque arm... Kinda like taking a knife to a gun fight...