Did the pistons leave the holes?
Did the pistons leave the holes?
RM CMC Director
I was actually thinking of running without bearings to increase my oil capacity and reduce the friction and parasitic loss in the oil pump. It would also save some weight in the engine to run without bearings.
Marshall Mosty
AI/SI Texas Regional Director
2011 NASA-TX American Iron Champ
AI #67 "Mosty Brothers' Racing" (RIP)
ST6 #21 Toyota Corolla (being revived)...
I usually just skip all that mess and leave the oil pump off. It's just parasitic to keep spinning the oil pump pushing all of that high viscosity fluid. No oil and no oil pump means a lot of parasitic drag and weight lost!
Just run 0W5 motor oil.
I used to run 20-50 in most if not all of my cars but the Mod motor experts say you can't get away with it (that most of your oil will be in the valve covers.). Sean Hyland says they made a set of clear Lexan valve covers for a 4.6 two valve and with the four valve higher volume oil pump the valve covers were completely full of oil at higher RPM's. He says to run the higher volume oil pump you have to drill the return holes in the head out larger. Most of those guys run 0W20 or 5W20. I can't make myself run it so I run 10W30 and hope I'm okay. I have seen and heard Matt Fucking White start a cold 4.6 and rap it to 8 grand in ten seconds after starting. I assume he was running very thin oil.
I will be on 30W oil this weekend and then 15W/50 for COTA.
Marshall Mosty
AI/SI Texas Regional Director
2011 NASA-TX American Iron Champ
AI #67 "Mosty Brothers' Racing" (RIP)
ST6 #21 Toyota Corolla (being revived)...
I do straight 40W Valvoline right now. Have done 5w40 and 0w40 in the past. I really need to do some homework on the VR1 I run now. It claims to have higher zinc and considers itself a racing oil. What oil temps are you guys seeing? When my coolant goes up, my oil huts 300+.
RM CMC Director
I have always ran purple 5-20 and 5-30 in my 4.6. I used to run VR1 40w in the miata. All good oil. I stay away from mobil one 5-30 cause it practically turns to water when hot.
“A man with no enemies is a man with no character.”
― Paul Newman
I wanted to run RP but thought the whole thing (purple oil) could be Hype. Most of the RP sold in auto parts stores is NOT racing oil but street oil. I agree on the Mobil One looking like water when hot but I ran it for awhile. I run the VR1 10W30 in the race car. The extra zinc is supposed to be good for flat tappet cam engines (I don't have a flat tappet cam but any extra protection can't hurt). If I can't find the VR1 I run Valvoline syn. 10-30 with a bottle of DSS Racing additive. http://shop.dssracing.com/product_p/op100%20single.htm
JJ
I think the zinc is still good for rockers that don't have roller tips too. I believe the M1 is a group 3 or 3/4 base stock whereas the RP is a group 4 base stock. I know M1 runs on the thin side because I have researched that one. Their high mileage oil has a smidge more zinc in it, but not enough to be a racing oil. RP isn't a racing oil either, but it is supposed to be better than M1. I think when people think of a racing synthetic they think of a group 5 base stock oil. Those are what initially debuted as a synthetic oil and are the ones you have to open your wallet for the most.
RM CMC Director
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