WTF is up with Vimeo and their new upload limit? I'm not paying $59.00 a year...
Anyway, here's why everybody should avoid stock wheel studs...
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WTF is up with Vimeo and their new upload limit? I'm not paying $59.00 a year...
Anyway, here's why everybody should avoid stock wheel studs...
That sucked! Better to lose it there, instead of big bend!!
Whose tire is in front of you Rock?
As DW sings...."you picked a fine time to leave me loose wheel."
I wouldn't use Moroso studs if they paid me. Of all the failures like yours that I have seen, the vast majority were Moroso's.
There should be a rule that only ARP's are allowed.
Sam has the bit to ream the new hubs, and I have borrowed that bit and am set up to do this if you need. I just finished two for Tilton and two for myself, including the Marshal Mosty how-to on the synthetic grease re-pack. Let me know if you want and I'll fix you up a pair with ARP's for $190. The hubs are SRW's (Koyo bearing) from NAPA, or I can use your old ones if you ship them to me.
I'll also agree on giving the Morosos the float test. Cheap material with a brittle heat treat to get "strength" combined with cut rather than rolled threads to amplify the stress risers. They are a disaster waiting to happen...
Richard P.
Cancelled my order for Moroso studs. Looks like Baer has the right size ARP to fit the front with no drilling. Will give them a call when they open.
I have the correct size drill (39/64") or if you want to do it right I have the 39/64" reamer. Anyone that wants to borrow them or use my drill press and do their hubs here at my shop are welcome.
Richard,
Dan was looking for some size restrictor plate. I have a 31,32,33,34 and 35mm in my desk. I don't remember what he wanted but he could bore out one of these to the size he needs.
JJ
The drilling is not a big deal Eddie. I did my front hubs with a corded drill and a shop vise as I dont have a press. I highly reccomend the ARP's. You can get ARP oversize studs from Summit for $13 for a five pack: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-100-7703/ Then you just need to order a 39/64 drill bit and your ready to go.
Dan in R4: http://vimeo.com/38819383
Richard P.
Awesome video! Glenn looked like he was auditioning for Formula Drift at about 2:24. Really hate I had to miss this race.
http://www.hart-photography.com/phot...wImage=1548729
Russian judge gives you a 4.0
I can verify the strength of the ARP wheel studs. 2 years ago I was in an accident at PPIR.
The axle was bent and a stock Ford wheel broke on the right rear side after being impacted.
Only one of the five ARP wheel studs were bent. None of them broke off.
But isn't that a right hand turn coming up???? Majic Man.
Here's my video from Cresson with Marshall riding shotgun. Thanks, Marshall!
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=325820187467525
Mindy
Race 3.
http://vimeo.com/39028684
The "Bump"
Next time I'll just drive farther off track. Mosty, you had a decent view, where's that video?
Race 4
http://vimeo.com/39120386
Probably as good as you got through...but I was afraid I wouldn't make it.
My in-car from R4.
http://vimeo.com/39122730
"Hey Jerry, I can't believe how much this premium costs."
"Yeah Mike, if we would just drill and refine in this country we would have plenty of cheap fuel."
http://i886.photobucket.com/albums/a...SC_6026b-1.jpg
As everyone has said:
39/64 bit or reamer (reamer is better)
ARP 7703's
AmsOil Racing grease
= years of trouble free racing.
I buy my hubs at O'reilley's. I get their "precision gear" 3yr warranty hubs ($75 my cost). I either look for Yoyo stamping (Same as OEM Ford) or just buy Timken (rebadged "National" brand).
I've used Ford (Koyo), Timken, and Precision with the same luck. I'm only on my second set of hubs in 7 years... still tight. Change the grease and rotate the ball bearings every two seasons. I'm shooting for 4 year service intervals. Ford hubs are pretty easy to determine when they are bad when you are on the track, so you "shouldn't" have catastrophic failures...
Drill bits are good for approx 20 hubs before they need to be replaced. That will vary on bit cost, but mine cost approx $35 each. The guy I use charges $10 per hub to drill using my bit.
If anyone wants hubs purchased and drilled, I will do them at cost (approx $85) or add studs for $100 total, or greased out the door for $125...
Side Note:
I drove a new AI racer's (Iaan)(sp?) 2003-04 Grand-Am Mustang on Saturday with a bad hub and it was really, really bad. Just had some strange directional changes and lots of noise. I set Ian back up with some spare hubs to complete the weekend and will regrease/drill/stud a new set for him before Hallett...
My wife told me as I came off track after R3 - "Your sleeping on the couch tonight!"
Great news for me...
My oil pressure issue isn't really an issue. I put an aftermarket mechanical gauge on it, and it's all good.
I guess I pulled off during R4 for no reason, but wasn't taking any chances with the new motor.