I just saved 30lbs on car weight by switching to Lexan. :D
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/i...6/DSCF0290.jpg
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/i...6/DSCF0291.jpg
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I just saved 30lbs on car weight by switching to Lexan. :D
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/i...6/DSCF0290.jpg
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/i...6/DSCF0291.jpg
You smell what the Rock is cooking!!??!!
AI beware!
Casey let me take his PHB off of Toolbreaker and put it on my car since mine looked like a dog's hind leg. Spent yesterday morning learning about and looking at the rear suspension. Replaced the lower control arms this morning with Casey's old stock ones. Heim joints are obnoxiously loud when they are worn out! And, no, Casey did not change the parts for me...
Found out my left rear torque box is ripping out of the car. The right side has a small stress crack but the left side is F'd!!!!!
Looks like I'll be getting a repair kit this week and bolting it in this weekend. It needs to be welded but my dads welder and my skills are not up to par.
I'll try to get pictures hosted of it soon, the torque box is virtually cracked in two.
All you Mustang guys check your upper and lower torque boxes. I have had a suspicion that my rear end has been moving a little too much over the last year or so and this appears to be the culprit.
Watching recorded F1 with some friends yesterday and found a tarantula in the bathroom... the race was paused for the capture.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x8uNEPe3iy8
Tupperware and welding gloves were my tools of choice.
The Texas A&M Entomology Dept is heading to the house to pick it up now.
Holy parallel dimension ...
A tarantula appeared in our kitchen floor yesterday during Lime Rock.
Captured it much the same way and released at the back of our property, 300' from our house (30' from our neighbor's).
My wife's reaction was much the same as Darci's, although accompanied by screams of terror.
Must be the Rapture... anyone else stumble upon a tarantula yesterday while watching racing? Mitch, is this good or bad for us?
There was plenty of screaming from Darcie before and after that video. We moved him into a larger home (friend brought a giant tub of cheesy balls over).
http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/a...ker/spider.jpg
Saw a scorpion crawling around my trailer the other day when I went to pick it up
The spider has been picked up by Allen Dean from TAMU...he is the person who identified the spiders from this http://www.texasento.net/Social_Spider.htm!!
He said that the spider was a male and probably wouldn't live that long, and was probably coming in to find water. He also said that females get twice the size as this one...
Caught 5-6 ants in the living room last night (they might have also been around since the Rapture). Pest control will be out today at 4pm to make sure we get the buggers... Trina's not too thrilled.
That's pretty nasty. How free is it to move? How are you going to put it back into the correct location before securing it?
I'd strongly suggest a welded repair. A bolted connection through the local sheet metal is likely to wallow out again pretty quickly and make future additional repairs much more difficult...
Richard P.
Sam- Is a tarantula really that big of a deal in CS that you have to call someone from TAMU? Why did you have to wear gloves or why weren't you wearing your racing gloves? Real men like myself and Tommy from CO just pick them up with our hands and let them crawl on our arms at Hallett. But maybe the researchers at TAMU will need some more specimens so bring your work gloves and containers next weekend as I'm sure you will find some up there. Are you going to shower at Hallett with steel toe work boots and those same gloves too?
I'm trying to lower future students' tuition... that's one less tarantula they have to buy for Entomology101.
My racing gloves were on under the welding gloves.
Spiders and I don't get along, I can deal with snakes all day long... no spiders though.
uhhh yeah.
I honestly have no clue what I'm going to do about this. I need to make some serious calls tomorrow.
I did call Wolfe Racecraft in Arlington and they said they charge $500 to do both the uppers and lowers (won't do lowers by themself) but they can't get to it for 2-weeks.
I'm pretty sure if a spider like that was found in my house I'd be looking at repair bills from several shotgun blasts...and maybe a ticket or two. Thats nuts.
Michael...wow! All you want for Christmas is a new tub? ;) I agree with Richard, but if bolt in is all you can do for one event then do what you have to do. There are plenty of guys that can do the welding friday night on site too once you get the bolt on pieces on.
www.jamesbchassis.com
Call him and tell him you are in a pickle. Might have you out same day.... he's good and in the north metroplex area.
Repair kit is ordered and will be here Friday.
Huge thanks to Mitch and Glenn who have agreed to help with the welding on Saturday!!
Not a problem.
The kit is made from 1/2" steel plate, right?
The rule allows for repair, not reinforcement. This was brought up when discussing the PHB mount on the rear diff in this thread.
http://www.aicmctexas.com/main/showt...y&daysprune=10
Don't want to see you DQed ...
[QUOTE=mitchntx;
Don't want to see you DQed ...[/QUOTE]
Does he need a good used bumper support?
JJ
Here is the rule:
7.34 Torque Box Repair
All cars are allowed to repair or reconstruct the rear lower control arm body attachment points within the following restrictions:
1.The attachment point must remain in the OEM Stock location and maintain the same geometry.
2. All additional reinforcement material or welding of existing material must be within 12” of the centerline of the mounting point hole.
3. None of the additional reinforcement may penetrate the floorpan or enter the interior of the car.
4. None of the additional reinforcement may attach directly to the rollcage or rollcage mounting points
Ford cars are additionally allowed to completely weld the rear upper control arm body attachment points within the following restrictions:
1.The attachment point must remain in the OEM Stock location and maintain the same geometry.
2. All welding of the existing material must be within 10” of the centerline of the mounting point hole.
So if I ever get around to building a car and it has good torque boxes, can I go ahead and install a repair or strengthening kit as preventative maintenance?
Not yet, but we will be addressing this rule to allow this. Myself and Al talked it over this evening.
Rob, after seeing what mine did I would HIGHLY recommend every Mustang driver do preventative maintenance and install the upper and lower kit before anything goes bad. I know this is not currently in the rules but it needs to be.
Richard is correct in every kit I've seen has some form of bracketry / welding done inside the car.
The kit I have in transit right now has interior brackets and I'm pretty certain it still will need additional bracketry, drilling, welding, etc to get mine back to solid.
I found out yesterday evening that my upper passenger side box is trashed worse than the lower drivers. The 3-link is putting a crazy amount of stress on the lone upper arm.
http://vimeo.com/24565831
Here is a video showing the splitting on the lower drivers torque box and the seperation on the passenger upper box.
Sorry the video is 90 degrees off.
Here is a link detailing the install of the repair kit.
http://www.angelfire.com/extreme5/bl...ttle_boxes.htm
Got my car running after installing a few new parts. Rump-ety rump...let's go racing.
:)
Last weekend Sam and I got to replace the 50gal water heater that was slowly dieing in our attic. The pilot light wouldn't stay lit and there was always 1/2" of water in the drip pan. So rather than have 50gal of water come through our ceiling. We went ahead and get a new one with a 11year warranty. <--the catch is you have to take the entire water heater back to Lowes, which means taking it out of the attic. :(
The hardest part was getting the thing up the narrow stairs with me trying to lift from the top and Sam from the bottom... there aren't handles on water heaters and I am not very strong, so Sam did a lot of dead lifting over his head.
Now we have to figure out how to get the old heater out of our attic... it might just stay for a while... :/
Delay in update from this weekend:
Took the car to Mitch and Glenn's to fix the torque box problems on Saturday. The drivers lower and passenger upper was A LOT more tweaked than expected. Glenn and Mitch did an amazing job relocating the mounts back to the stock location and getting everything welded up!!! Everything is now in the correct position and lines up great.
We ended up not installing the kit at this time and the directors will discuss the rule and determine what wording needs to be changed.
Thanks again to Glenn and Mitch for their help!! I was pretty freaked out last week when I noticed the problem but now am just ready for Hallett. You guys rock!!
Our old house in Lewisville had the water heater in the attic. That was the first house we bought in TX after moving from CA, and we were amazed building codes allowed them to be in the attic - a burst water heater would be a nightmare. We were fortunate that it never needed replacement before we sold that house and moved to Flower Mound.
I don't envy anyone having to deal with one of those beasts.
Fixed my cool suit and tested it only to find a horrific fuel leak when I flipped on the powah. The leak is under the car near the trans... strange cause it wasn't leaking at TWS or when it was unloaded to where it sits now. :scratches head: Looks like I'll be repairing some fuel hard lines tonight.
I haven't been under the car yet, but the passenger side of the exhaust was soaked just forward of the trans cross member.
Any tips or suggestions?
Left the truck at the shop. Originally went just for an alignment but when they showed me the upper ball joint slop..."Holy sh!t" was heard through the whole shop. No time to fix myself, so I left it. Not even safe to drive, much less tow 1k miles this weekend.