Okay, now I did get a chuckle out of that... :)Quote:
Originally Posted by rpoz27
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Okay, now I did get a chuckle out of that... :)Quote:
Originally Posted by rpoz27
We should pick a charity and do a fun run with all mustangs for 20 and all camaros for twenty. Would be fun to watch
2. INTENT
The intent of the Camaro Mustang Challenge (CMC) racing series is to provide National Auto Sport Association (NASA) members a racing series featuring production American pony cars. Modifications will be limited to those necessary to promote safety, close competition, and flexibility to enable drivers to learn and experiment with the principles of race car setup within boundaries intended to limit expenses, thereby providing the drivers with fun, exciting, and challenging yet approachable racing.
I don't see anything about making ANY platforms equal. Isn't that called spec piñata?
You just proved my point that the rules change elimiated a stock TPI... Every OPTION you mention is going to cost me money that I don't have...Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennCMC70
Have waded through this Torque Arm discussion to see if repairs were made on OP vehicle. Pardon me if I missed it somewhere.
Concerning the 110 welder-they do not have enough "beans" (amperage).
The base metal is more than likely an alloy that is coated (dipped) with rust preventative (most likely a proprietary galvanised solution) and then painted.
I would not recommend heating with torch as it possibly could weaken metal beyond affected areas.
It is necessary to grind through the coating to get to good metal for welding.
In looking at the pics, it did not appear that the welder had any sort of protective gas around the heat affected zone (HAZ) to protect metal while cooling. He could have been using fluxed wire which is nasty to work with, leaving lots of splatter.
Having said all that, it is necessary to use 220 Mig with either 75(argon)/25 (CO2) or 100% Argon shielding gas.
Welder might to experiment with different filler wires to determine correct for alloy. But any good body shop should know correct number.
Recommend welder (and owner of vehicle) consider a little "gusseting" on replacement parts, if it will pass tech.
Sorry if preaching to choir here.
Tom
I'll disagree w/ a couple things here and move on.Quote:
Originally Posted by scopx
A 110 welder is plenty when dealing w/ body sheetmetal and floorpans. My 135amp is rated to 1/8" (.125"). I haven't come across any unibody cars using material that thick yet.
Heating the metal to burn off the coating is OK as long as you don't heat the metal too much. The goal is to burn off the coating and not make the metal glow red. Grinding is OK but the dust from doing so still contains the "stuff" your trying to remove and this will still cause welding issues. It is easy to remove too much material as well when grinding. Once you see yellow sparks, you have gone deep enough. Acessing the area could be an issue as well w/ a grinder. Welding on the face of clean metal that is still coated w/ the coating on the backside will cause the "outgassing" that will affect the weld. It is less likely, but still possible.
Jerry-why don't you be the guinea pig for this and see what happens? http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...09b840b690017c
I would rather try this.Quote:
Originally Posted by BryanL
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...09b840b690017c
Who knows how much if any these things would help the handling of my car?
JJ
Great-then I want to be able to have a similar setup and should be allowed this.Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadowBolt
http://www.unbalancedengineering.com/Camaro/TA/
Coil over struts versus a decoupled torque arm... Kinda like taking a knife to a gun fight... :)Quote:
Originally Posted by BryanL
I happen to have a weekend "street car" that has the MM coilovers on the front, and the rear, and it has the MM panhard bar, oh and the MM torque arm. No cage, but it does have subframe connectors. PBR cobra brakes, and old school CMC (230hp) engine. Sounds like I need to swap the street tires for toyos and run my street car and race car back to back. Both are fox coupes....
Bring it Jr., and congrats on the wedding. Do you get to drive the Camaro yet? Keep dreaming.
Pay closer attention and you will see that my response is to the MM torque arm and not coilovers--mustangineers.Quote:
Originally Posted by marshall_mosty
BL... Check your link... It's to MM coil overs... geez!Quote:
Originally Posted by BryanL
Since I missed Hallett I got some practice in at Grandsport Speedway today. I put the (now hated) Big Brake Kit on the car to hopefully stop the axle hop that I've been fighting.
Didn't work.
I'll take the Big Brake Kit off and give the Mustangs any torque arm they want if I can have a decoupled torque arm for the Camaro. Please, can I haz decoupled torque arm?
Waht is a "BBK"?
big brake kit?
Changed BBK to Big Brake Kit.
Could your driving style is the issue w/ brake hop? If that is the case, a BBK will not fix it. I'll make a point to look the car over real well at ECR if you would like.
dial out rear brake and get rear shocks with better rebound dampening.Quote:
Originally Posted by HoustonNW
Wayne, Aren't you still running all of your lines through the factory routing and factory (disabled) ABS module? Does anyone have any experience on whether or not that system should be replumbed to help alleviate the issue? My understanding at TWS was that you had all of the rear brake dialed out that you could.
Before the new brakes I already had the bias all the way to the front with Autozone street pads on the back.Quote:
Originally Posted by rpoz27
I do have DA Koni's but haven't added rear rebound because the car was almost undriveably loose on entry as it was. (Even Proctor said that he wouldn't want to drive it in traffic.) Higher tire pressure has helped that a lot, although I can't figure out why exactly.
Glenn asked about driving style. I know that I need to use the brakes harder, maybe I'm now applying them too fast? I seem to have the axle hop when I try to brake harder but I haven't reached any lockup yet.
Make sure torque arm bolts are tight, and that shocks are functioning correctly. I had loose torque arm bolts and busted right rear shock......too many take-offs and landings.
I have had the same problem. I guess the torque arm worked loose and then broke the shock from moving around so much. It will cause more brake hop for sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by rleng1
I like to refere to the bias a different way. The valve has a "<-----less more----->" on top. So it should be less rear brake or more rear brake. So be sure that when your turning it in the "less" direction, your wanting less rear brake and if your turning it in the "more" direction your wanting more rear brake. The valve should be plumbed into the forward brake line port on the master. Be sure the arrow is pointing towards the rear calipers.Quote:
Originally Posted by HoustonNW
W/ you seemingly complaining of this much more that other folks, it seems your car is the issue. There has to be something simple that is being overlooked causing your car to be worst that others.
Rear shocks are important, but the fronts could also be contributing to it. A lack of compresion in the front will allow too much weight transfer.
Dont get the increase in rear pressures helping a loose condition.