"I'm not trying to beat you up, just supporting your observation that I want to continue to learn and understand the expectations of those racing around me."
Best statement in this thread.
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"I'm not trying to beat you up, just supporting your observation that I want to continue to learn and understand the expectations of those racing around me."
Best statement in this thread.
"I'm not trying to beat you up, just supporting your observation that I want to continue to learn and understand the expectations of those racing around me."
So true!
[QUOTE=blk96gt;70366]
*I know the CCR says 3/4 car width, but I really hate this rule. If I establish a position beside someone on a straight, and then they manage to come down and hit me in the middle of the turn and I didn't have two wheels off track (assuming there's no wall, and I'm on the edge of the track), then it's my fault. At least that is my understanding of the rule, so please correct me if I'm wrong. How that constitutes good, clean, and fun racing is beyond me.
QUOTE]
That's is not how the rule works. If you have position (nose to the front doors of the car in front), the car you are overtaking has LOST the right to the line. The 3/4 width rule DOES NOT apply here as the overtaken driver has LOST the right to dictate their line - both drivers MUST be given racing room and both MUST avoid contact by adjust their line accordingly. If you think about it, this makes total sense. If the overtaken does not have the right to the line, they don't get to dictate shit. At this point BOTH drivers must be able to race unimpeded so 3/4 width would put the overtaking driver at a HUGE disadvantage (having to over brake to slow, momentum; adjust their line abruptly; put two wheels off leading to a side by side collision when they had the RIGHT to race.
If the overtaken car crowds you and causes contact, they are 100% responsible for that contact, as long as you have not made any abrupt change to your line. Now that does not mean the other driver cannot try to intimidate you by pinching a bit or adjust their braking and making you over-brake or go off course but if they make contact that is their fault. My driving coach many years ago was Beaux Barfield (glad he's finally left WhinyCars) and I remember him running me wide or tight over and over and over again for most of an afternoon until I got that through my head...he TOLD me he would back off but every time I kept adjusting my line because of the way he drove. I finally got it through my head and started making really good passes on him. He told me that KNOWING how to take advantage of the rules is one thing, but getting others to GIVE you an advantage under the rules is way more powerful).
The 3/4 width rule comes into play IFF you have NOT established position, but the pass has been started (e.g. your front bumper overlaps the other car's rear bumper), the overtaken car RETAINS the right to the line but MUST give you 3/4 width. YOU are responsible for adjusting your line at that point including slowing down, but this is where the 3/4 width rule comes in...since you have started the pass, the overtaken driver MUST give you 3/4 width and cannot claim a line that would leave you less than 3/4 width.
If you have NOT started the pass, then you get NOTHING, NADA, ZIP.
This is what FIA, SCCA and NASA (albeit not well worded in 25.4.3) are guarding against.
One topic in this light is divebombing. I think of it as a negative example...a bad thing to do. Other people characterize it as a good passing maneuver, within the rules.
Here are two ways I have heard it described:
1) (I think a dive bomb is) when an attempt to pass is started when the overtaken car is ALREADY taking the turn and has the RIGHT to the line - maybe they just got off the throttle, maybe just a downshift, or maybe they are turning in...at this point the pass has NOT been started and any contact is 100% the responsibility of the overtaking driver.
2) (I don't think a dive bomb is) when you come in hot, late brake and overlap the bumpers BEFORE the other driver starts their turn....of course you need to be in complete control..otherwise all bets are off. But this is show some people characterize divebombing...in this light, I don't have a problem with it - I just consider is an aggressive overtake but nothing wrong with it.
[QUOTE=BlueFirePony;70373]Didn't get past the first 2 lines........ you are incorrect.Quote:
Originally Posted by blk96gt
Front tire to the door gives rights to position, not the nose.
3/4 car width rule still applies even if position is established. It shows that contact was attempted to be avoided by the over taking car by putting 1/4 of the car off track.
Don't post here anymore on this subject. I am starting a new thread.
[QUOTE=GlennCMC70;70374][QUOTE=BlueFirePony;70373]
Quote:
Right...I meant tire to door. "driver in front loses the right to choose his or her line when the overtaking driver has their front wheel next to the driver"
phhhtttfffttt!Quote:
Don't post here anymore on this subject. I am starting a new thread.
This, I did not know...
http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet+Perf...43374/10002/-1
NiceQuote:
Originally Posted by Fbody383
Pulled the transmission and found this...
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.n...bdf5f7ff3b9d6c
I broke the output shaft between the 3/2 gear set. Tony at Astro has NEVER seen an output shaft fail in this location. Time to send the 3/2 and cluster to him for a magnaflux and get a new 9310 steel output shaft prior to Cresson.
Impressive, must be that 600ft/lb that hits when you push the turbo boost button.Quote:
Originally Posted by marshall_mosty
NOS in the roll cage is easier to hide from the inspectors.Quote:
Originally Posted by mach1
How long had you been running that A5 shaft Marshall?
John,
The output shaft that broke was a stock T5 shaft with unknown time/miles. I've been thru about 6 transmissions and have parts to build several in the shop.
It could range from 2-10 seasons of racing... I just don't know...
I will be upgrading to the high alloy A5 shaft (only an extra $125) over a stock shaft.
Since you're AI, why not just use a different transmission?Quote:
Originally Posted by marshall_mosty
I would think a full A5 spec trans will be nearly bulletproof at his power level, and you keep the weight down with a t5.Quote:
Originally Posted by Supercharged111
I could have used something different, but just chose to do the T-5 route again. Hopefully with the upgraded mainshaft, I won't have any more issues going forward.Quote:
Originally Posted by Supercharged111
You've got the transmission rebuild down pat!
What does a t-5 weight without a bellhousing?
If I remember it is 72 lbs. dry.Quote:
Originally Posted by AI#97
JJ
Thanks jerry. If that is true, that is only 10# heavier than a jerico....not bad.Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadowBolt
Light enough to stab by myself overhead.Quote:
Originally Posted by AI#97
Installed new Marshall Mosty Special hubs and rebuilt my fuel cell yesterday. Now> Motor> I'm ready for you, any day now. You're killin me.
http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-t.../assembly.html
All the info you could want on the A-5
82lbs. wet.
JJ
Is it childish to go to the Target and do 4-wheel donuts in my wife's Explorer on the ice? I did get the required lettuce and tomatoes from Target after...
Yes, the grown up thing would have been to do it in a Tahoe.
Alas there was no snow or ice in Houston......we did circle work anyway
Hah , I did the same today, f150, elocker, Kroger, tortillas and canola oil :)
Meh, I did it in the wife's car involuntarily in the middle of the street after passing someone on the inside. :o
Unfortunately, we didn't have enough stuff to get the opportunity to act childish. :D
I didn't realize I needed snow to act childish. I know Leinart doesn't. :pQuote:
Originally Posted by AllZWay
Definitely not. But in my old age I'm now smart enough to put helmets on the kids-just not for myself. The plastic discs we used in the sand dunes work great for the kids with a ski rope. Best was in the school parking lot where I could just sling them around. The 50 Rules! Now just wondering what crab toe was up to? And we are supposed to get more snow early tomorrow morning.....Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Liebbe
Good Stuff...back in high school we used a 68 Camaro trunk lid, an inner tube, and a plastic towable sled for a boat and pull them all over a neighborhood with my Triumph TR7 car. Then we used these same items plus more to slide down the side of the lake dam(they put up fencing to stop this after us).Quote:
Originally Posted by BryanL
Kneeboard and a '78 Fairmont, that's what I used back in the day. I vividly remember seeing my girlfriend at the time getting slung through a row of hedges.
In fact, we didn't need snow to drag things behind the car. When I moved back to Texas from Detroit, I dragged my snow blower behind my '91 Mustang until the snow blower disintegrated upon colliding with a pole. It was a warm and dry evening. Wish I could find that video.
Snow Fun pictures.
Rob,
tell everyone about the washer dryer combo you dragged around the streets shearing off city titties.
That was Bud, and it is a true story. However, I was involved in lawnmower dragging and bicycle ghost riding at 60 mph out of a pickup.Quote:
Originally Posted by cjlmlml
Ahh, memories...Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Liebbe
85 Chevrolet short bed, and the top to a 30 gallon plastic trash can
Just got done with snowboarding in Keystone. Will drive thru and see a bit of Denver before flying home tomorrow night.
It was nice to get away and my mind off things.
Finally got the project "home". Thanks toMichael for taking time out of his day to help me pull her out.
1957 Chevy Bel Air, 4-door Sedan
283ci, 2bbl, Powerglide Transmission
Factory A/C
119,000 miles
One owner (4th generation in the family)
Amazingly the car is truly the same color. Some panels oxidized at different rates (maybe due to prior damage/repair paint), but it's amazingly straight and only rust is behind the rear bump and back of the trunk (easily repaired). I even have the dealer letter from June of 1956 when the owner was configuring the car, and then purchased in July, 1956. Truly a diamond in the rough.
It's amazing what you run across at an Estate Sale.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.n...48227a93d9df43
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.n...2f913a4d1be4f4
https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...89&oe=55A96D77
https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...70&oe=55B3EB10
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.n...80b14a40fffc3b
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.n...ec2f5d378591bc
I would have a pro come over and detail/restore the paint and clear over it (flat clear).
Do a disc brake upgrade on all 4 corners and a nice low cost set of 17 or 18 inch wheels along with a 4.8 LS and 4L60 swap (the 4.8 cause they are dirt cheap) and drive the piss out of it. No A/C needed. Summer nights and spring/fall weekend driver.