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Glad to see you're going to be able to wait until the final clarification before spending $ on a new motor. Daniel (bought Wade's car then blew it up on his first day out) went ahead and got a new motor put together with a normal crank.Quote:
Originally Posted by mach1
LOL I hope so, do you happen to have the dyno graph for that motor?? I would love to see it, basically the same as my junk but with the HO Cam.Quote:
Originally Posted by Supercharged111
My engine/trains are in the car, exhaust up. Just need trans fluid and put in the alternator/radiator and install the upper intake.
Maybe 3 hours until vroom vroom... Most likely will be Thursday. Keeping my fingers crossed.
I need a way to get on HHR (Corey) or COTA (way too high) or even TWS for a few laps. I do not want to load up the RV and all the race crap to find out something is still wrong.
JJ
Im going to beat mine on the county roads around my house and beg for mercy if i get busted.Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadowBolt
Jerry, do what I always do, rent a dyno for an hour and just beat on it while having them watch the AFR. Well worth the money and you get to stand next to the car and listen/watch everything. Around here it's $100, I'm sure there are a few options around Austin...Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadowBolt
Not a bad idea....I need a dyno anyway but there is not one NASA will accept in my area that will do pulls on Sat.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pranav
JJ
That is my plan. I'm having mine retuned anyway, so will use the "warm up" time to just run it up/down for 20-30 minutes.
That method did not work to break in my motor last year and I had to go back for a 2nd dyno (actually 3rd since I discovered I'd spun a bearing on the first go).
Mach1 that 5.0 was never dyno'd as it was in a street car.
Unless its a dyno dynamics load dyno then it wont help or simulate anything. Track testing is best.
Ish... found several articles about setting up the countershaft to the tight side (0.002-0.00X) especially since new tapered bearings can use the preload.Quote:
Originally Posted by mach1
Countershaft with preload first.
Mainshaft with end play second.
Countershaft extension with end play third.
And then beat Mosty in his test mule 3400lb, 235 wide hooptie.
AI #67 is alive
11 quarts of SAE30 oil to break in the rings/bearings
Timing at 10-deg BTDC
Fuel at 45psi
TPS at 0.98V
Rear tires at 30psi
10 gallons of gas in the tank
Good to dyno next Friday (8-Jan)...
Raised the ride height, re-aligned the car, and got it dyno-ed last week. Everything from here on out is a "should fix/finish"
Been busy making scrap metal art with the new welder.
OIF transmission shop night tonight/tomorrow. Plan is to get the shim package figured out tonight for final assembly tomorrow. Should be fun/interesting.
How about I bring my Z06 trans to Hallett and you rebuild it while I drink beer and watch? Sounds tedious.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fbody383
Pre-load vs. end play. It's all in the "shimmin" instructions, just in a weird order for the newbs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Supercharged111
Sean and I, well Sean, built the end play tool and we think we have it shimmed well. Found several articles on building last week that said, and it makes sense, start with setting the countershaft pre-load. Makes sense that some/most of the horsepower rating comes from the countershaft beeing happily snug in the case halves.
Split the case again and, with no shim in the input/mainshaft hole - bolt up the halves with the shimmed countershaft, and measure the input/main tolerance. split it again and intall input/main shim. Bolt it all back up again, pull reverse idler and countershaft extension shim, install extension, measure...
Make sure you put the extension spacer in correctly and that the blocker is lined up with the keys... or you have no end-play when you should have 0.050ish. THEN you get to do it again.
So Orange is shimmed and the entire crew, including smart guys, is gathering tonight to get it all put together. Not holding breath... have faith in those guys.
Dustin - bring an engine stand, transmission adapter, various snap ring/split ring pliers, 20 ton hydraulic press, bearing separator, press beds, sockets, tubing, rebuild kit, bearings, dial indicator, etc. and Sean can bring the endplay too.
Bring all the beer you think it requires and we'll help walk you through it. We'll know by then whether or not we recommend our own work.
Parts: http://www.thegearbox.org/T56_corvette.html
Read and re-read 5-1: http://www.thirdshiftstudios.com/T56manual.pdf
Orange is shift. Seand and Paul were nice enough to put the front end back together while Scott and I tackled the T56.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fbody383
We did a 'reverse' twice - first try putting the case together we let the reverse/5-6 shift rod get twisted and drop off the #156 Plate, Interlock. So fixed that and then had to chase a case thread to install the #45 and #46 Bolt, Shift Lever Guide while simultaneously lifting the reverse/5-6 shift rod to line everything up.
Plan is to get it in the car this weekend and let it run on jackstands before dyno on the 14th.
Dustin, did you order parts yet?
Dyno tuned #67
ABS Tune
337/355
3201 min weight
No-ABS Tune
358/378
3222 min weight
Original tune was WAY too advanced on timing (34-degrees total)...
I'm surprised it lasted as long as it did.
I did not, Corvette is still in the trailer until my flipper car sells. Kinda hard to not make money on a free car. From there I won't order parts until I tear it down which I anticipate will be much before June. I know I'm in it for 2nd gear, blocker ring, and 1-2 synchro hub. I'll likely do 3-4 syncs ad well. Gonna need wave washers, snap rings, probably do keys, definitely fork pads, plus whatever else is worn. That car has 120k on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fbody383
Finished getting the junk yard dog 013 back together, took it for a spin on the county road outside of my house, car feels good. I have never seen a sheriff on this road, well of course I passed one when I took the car out, he didn't mess with me fortunately. Dyno next week, car should be a little down on power with the compression drop of this motor, we will see.
Took the 55 to TWS today and ran it for 15 to 20 minutes (yep 4.5 hours round trip). Ran perfect. Only difference in the car from when it bent the intake valves and melted the plugs last Oct. is the fuel and two steps colder plugs. I have no idea what octane was brought to me at Hallett that we put in the car after R4 then loaded it on the trailer but I know it had 93 in it today and it ran perfect. Last Oct. it messed up by T6 on the second lap first session out. I hate that it happened but hope it was just low octane fuel and not a problem waiting to return.
JJ
I know you're not a big fan of carrying a ton of fuel on the trailer, but just being able to get four jugs to the track would save you a lot of running around and depending on local fuel supply. I myself have a 6 jug rack simply because I don't want to risk getting crappy fuel in OK, and being in Houston I get the best prices down here than anywhere else. I usually end up having enough fuel for three days with a little leftover that I just dump in the truck's tank.
Have u ever removed your fuel injectors and had them properly flow tested and cleaned? Cleaning them makes a big diff in consistency.
Nope.Quote:
Originally Posted by Suck fumes
Jerry
I used these guys (Mike Montgomery's recommendation) and was pleased with their service/speed. They are in San Antonio. I think it was $200 total once I paid shipping both ways.Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadowBolt
http://fuelinjection.com/
Use precision power in del valle, tx. (512) 751-5018 They always do a great job. Same price last time i used them. $25ea injector.
I have used these guys, $18/injector to test+clean, gives you a nice before/after printouts. Located down here in Houston https://www.injectorrx.com
Damn that is pricey, I got the injectors in my car for $50, they were new, no one wants 19lb injectors so I guess thats a good thing. I wonder how close they flow out of the box.
Just depends on how they were cared for and stored. My very first engine start wouldn't happen until I had them cleaned out big time, completely clogged. Had them cleaned again when I found junk from the 20yr old factory supply line was clogging them back up again.
Now I run all new PTFE line and a 1 micron fuel filter, shouldn't need to mess with that again...
I would to learn more about injectors if anybody is in the know. After Sean's hydraulic lock from a stuck open injector, I am thinking replacing malfunctioning injectors with new ones is the safest way to go. My only experience is with a low miles engine that had been sitting long enough for the gas in the rail to go bad. It wouldn't run without replacing the injectors.
Drivetrain is in and car is on skates. Boy-child's Camry needed a rescue towing and is now in the way. Planning to get transmission fluid in it tonight and see what kind of noise it makes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fbody383
Snap rings are a kit, fork pads are cheap and i'm in the stock plastic camp, keys means you're all the way in but worth it if it's apart. Get it apart before ordering so you can take a good look at the bearings.Quote:
Originally Posted by Supercharged111
That's the plan. Work schedule is looking pretty full, probably going to be driving the truck until fall now. :( In fact it's so bad, I need to get a dyno scheduled in the next few weeks. Good thing my turd is pretty much ready to go.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fbody383
On a side note, I just spent $165 to have eight 36# injectors cleaned and flow tested by Injector Experts (includes return shipping) for my tow pig in anticipation of the Whipple on the shelf. I've used Witch Hunter in the past, but their lack of desire to answer the phone or my email forced me to deviate. Hopefully these guys are legit. Witch Hunter served me good in the past, but this time when I had questions they weren't there and their website implies that they're entirely too busy to bother answering your questions so fuck 'em.
Put trans fluid in and ran the silly thing in gear for a bit - no strange noises and seems to shift ok with the MGW. Going to run it in a little more tonight on jackstands and dyno the silly thing tomorrow. What could possibly go... wait, don't answer that.
2014 I went to the dyno 4 times and still never fixed my issues. Took 3 tries last year and finally succeeded. Maybe this year I'll nail it in 2x.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fbody383
Despite my 4 month hiatus from racing, I've been quite busy.
There was the TDE event late last month, and the whole trans output bushing debacle.
Went ahead and reinforced my trans mount pickup points from underneath last weekend, hopefully the cracking should stop.
Spent a solid 2 days replumbing my fuel system the right way, just wrapped it up yesterday.
Currently working on finally getting that AFFF fire system put in the car after it has sat on my garage floor for four years.. Hoping to get some better side mirrors put in and bolt the passenger seat and harness back in tomorrow evening, and I'll be all set for next weekend. Doing TDE event here at MSRH.
After that, one or two more weekends of work on the car, then may try catch the OTD event at TWS right after our NASA event there (that I have to miss, for a wedding). Hoping not too many of you guys skip out on NOLA in May.
Got a recall notice from Acura that the airbag inflator could explode and send shrapnel into my face... So it's at the dealer until parts arrive... In mid-JUNE... While at the dealer last week, there was a hail storm. Now my car has hail damage.
Same storm the hit my car also probably totaled our roof at home, but more importantly, the satellite dish somehow punched a hole in our roof from one of the support legs. It's big enough for me to put my fist thru... The ironic part is we don't use satellite anymore and I just never pulled the dish down. Now I get to deal with a himeowner's claim for a new roof, fix the hole, hope it doesn't rain soon.
On a "good" note, I did continue to throw money at #67 and replace the MAF with an entirely new unit and also replace the intake tubing. I have a dyno on 13-Apr, so hopefully I can get the engine to run right.
What is the "Right Way"? Meaning what did you do and/or use?Quote:
Originally Posted by Pranav
6AN PTFE braided hose running straight from the fuel pump/filter to the rails, through the cabin in one piece, with no bulkhead connections. Previously I had bulkhead connections, so I went from 14 fittings down to 6, less chances to leak as I've caught a couple of the bulkheads producing residue over time.
I used high temperature, liquid tight metallic electrical conduit that have bulkhead connections at entry/exit, so all I had to do is snake the hose through the conduit in one piece and hook it up on both ends outside of the car. The liquid tight conduit allows me to pass the fuel line through the cabin safely with crush/heat/abrasion/cut protection along with complete isolation from myself since it is essentially metal pipe sealed off from the cabin at entry/exit.
I also ditched the Russell 6AN to tube adapters as 3/4 of them were seeping, and at TWS last year I had a close call when the locking nut backed off and fell off the return fitting on the rail/FPR; I had 6AN bungs TIGed to a new pump and the supply rail for a secure connection.
Passenger rail got an Aeromotive FPR in stock location (per ruls) set to 43.5PSI with a 6AN fitting screwed into it. I tried to see if I could just TIG a fitting directly onto a new, stock FPR, but wasn't comfortable heating that thing up during the TIG process and trying it out as an "expriment" so I ponied up the extra $100 for the Aeromotive that allowed me to simply screw in a 6AN fitting. I also considered TIGing the bung on to the detachable pipe that pushes in to the FPR, but I have had an incident before where that clip had popped off and the connection started spraying.
That WRL COTA incident got me skurred...
My first car was an '02 Accord, THE ground zero car for the whole Takata airbag mess. I believe a good majority of the fatalities have been in '01-'02 Accords when they started having more parts made in Mexico.Quote:
Originally Posted by marshall_mosty
That thing had been hooned and jumped all over the place (AutoX, Drag, Road rallyes), and it lived in a high humidity environment its entire life (#1 factor for the inflator corrosion problem). I got the letter in the mail 3 months after I dumped it at Carmax back in '10. I had a minor freak out when some poor guy in the area was killed by the airbag in a minor collision, in an '02 Accord just like mine last year. Fortunately I found that it was not my car. Thanks Honda.
Not today, but last Thursday I had rotator cuff surgery on my left shoulder. 4-6 weeks in a sling and then I can start therapy. Fun!!!