Yep, that'll do.
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Yep, that'll do.
Ran in Yellow group with an instructor with TDE at MSRH this past weekend. Found a few things that needed improving but was able to get some quality learning on.
It's a great weekend when you spend more time working on the trailer than the car.
Going to try run the WRL Friday practice later this month if they actually hold it. 6 more weeks!
Sorry, it has been lost to history. No clue where it went.
Went to the dyno today to hopefully show that my gremlins are resolved... After MSRC, I ordered a new intake pipe, MAF housing, and MAF electronics.
Got it on the dyno and it's running like crap... MAF reference voltage is all over the place at idle. Ended up putting a used sensor in the old MAF housing and it worked.. No freaking clue why. All I know is it appears to be fixed.
Ended up basically the same as before:
340/360 ABS tune
3240 min
359/378 no-ABS tune
3232 min
I'll run a 3240 sticker weight
To the far right....
we need more group pictures
I agree...
Got some more wrenching in this weekend. Did brakes, Fixed random stuff around the car and raised my ride height a tiny bit. Off for an alignment tomorrow then ready for this weekend's ra... oh no that's right...
Put the T56 back together... again.... again on Sunday afternoon. Just have to remember where to put the stupid shift rod so it doesn't go into 4th too many times putting the case together. Back in the car tomorrow, racing on Saturday.
Pranav, I will kiss TWS goodbye for you.
Drove the OIF CMC #39 onto the trailer last night. In first gear. Which was cool. We let it run on jack stands for a bit and no noises from the re-re-re-spect-built 6 speed. We'll know soon enough.
We pressed the mainshaft nose bearing ( #22 Bearing, Mainshaft Small Tapered) on approximately 0.015"-0.020" further than it had been. Looking closely it appeared to be slightly off the shoulder and after a little squeeze, had displaced some trans fluid. We think, based on all the feedback from smart transmission people that we have the right idea. After that, re-shimming, new blockers, etc. the 3-4 slider assembly measures more centered.
We can confirm that the countershaft shimming goes from unturnable to "just right" within 0.003".
Dustin, bring that pig box of yours to Hallett and we'll drink you through a rebuild.
I think we should have a 4th gear only gentleman's race in one of the TWS inverts.
I'd be up for a rebuild party (but not at Hallett). We've got one box stuck in fourth and are supposedly buying a spare box that we would want to go through before putting into service. There is also the possibility that we will be returning your borrowed box stuck in fourth gear...
Richard P.
Dave would have the advantage of the race was run in reverse... Lol
Well it's been a while since I've participated in a NASA event and I was determined to make it to the last TWS race. All I needed to do was change the oil...or so I thought. After putting the car on the lift I saw that the oil filter had a drip down the side. After an extensive investigation and a cooler adapter change I discovered that the filter adapter that is bolted to the block was split in half. Had to rob one off another engine that was on my stand but got it back together in time to leave for TWS Friday night. After changing the oil and loading it on the trailer, as I was tying the car down, I noticed oil dripping off the passenger side of the pan. Unload the car and re-rack it to find the source. After an hour of searching and finally using the 'blow talc onto the block to find the leak' method, I discover a pan stud that is pouring oil from under the nut. Apparently the flange nut was only touching the fillet on the pan and not clamping the rail tight enough to seal (I've already been through two track days and 3 races before and this never leaked). So I cut down a washer to fit the pan rail and re-installed the nut with silicone. After an hour to dry I started the engine to verify the leak was gone. After letting the car down I reach inside to kill the master and nothing happens. Engine is still running. CRAP!!! It seems that when I installed the new alternator I used a single wire type to replace the multi wire type and it has to be wired to the battery side of the switch and not the bus side. It is now 8 am Saturday morning and I haven't slept since Thursday night. So I decide that since I've missed the morning session that I will take a nap and try to get to TWS by the afternoon for tech and race on Sunday. Wound up sleeping until 8 pm but that was ok as I could tech in the morning still. Forgot to mention that earlier Friday I replaced the U-joints in the truck. Well I didn't get to really drive it until Sunday morning. As I was headed out to breakfast, I notice a massive high frequency vibration that had not been there before. In my haste I had inadvertently installed the rear driveshaft out of phase with the front shaft. Yes I marked it before I took it apart but didn't notice it going back together. So now I'm back on the lift with the truck on Sunday morning. At this point I figure there is something telling me to punt and go for the next race. Hopefully I'm in town for it. It sounds like you guys had fun though. Wish I could have been there. Mine was a valid excuse Pranav! Gotta move the zipper around to the front! ; )
Dave, I have two T56's (LS1 and LT1) that I need to go through. Can I pick your brain on parts acquisition and any tips/tricks you may have discovered?
Certainly. PM here (questions or get a number) or call if you have the number. My understanding is that the only difference is the front plate and input shaft.
You don't have to memorize this, read through it a couple of times and search and highlight "end play" and "preload."
TECH TIP - put the selector shaft into reverse when you're putting the main case back on.
http://www.dederichsmotorsports.com/.../T56manual.pdf
Crazy story Gary
I'm not sure the 4th gear race is the best Idea. Dave's spare transmission that he was kind enough to lend to us started not wanting to go into 4th gear at all before it locked in 3rd gear. Maybe a race with some kind of a lottery system where the gear you are stuck with is a game of chance...
Richard P.
Still not funnyQuote:
Originally Posted by RichardP
But interested in what's inside...</words></words>
Had both cars looked at for hail damage..
$2,000 for the Explorer
$3,400 for the Acura
Yea!!
Ran the WRL open track day at TWS yesterday. Lots of aborted laps for traffic, but the best complete lap I could manage was a 2:02. My last/best official NASA time was a 2:02 and I think I may have qualified at a 2:00 flat once. The car is better faster and fixed of issues since that last NASA race, just couldn't get it done yesterday. Still getting scared in turn 1.
Going to try one more time in late May if they really are going to close this summer.
Chin Motorsports is having an event at TWS in June. Great group, well run,no wasted time 30min. sessions with a 60 min session at the end of the day. Best run events we have done. Usually 3 run groups all with point by passing.
Need some advise on bolt extraction.
When my three link mount let go, the second diff mount bolt (was using one of the cover bolt holes) sheared off. I tried small RH drill bits with no luck. I think this is a metric grade 8.8 bolt so it's pretty tough.
I've ordered some 1/8" center drill bits and then some LH bits. I also have easy out's once I have the hole drilled.
Are there any other techniques other than:
1. Center drill
2. LH drill bit
3. Easy out
??
This happened Friday at Royal Purple Raceway when I was there.
http://www.sportingnews.com/nascar-n...go-crash-video
I got mine back to a roller again. Time to find a frame shop I feelnI can trust.
Found the collapse pin sheared in the OEM column. I will need to repair that now as well.
Anyone have frame shop they can recommend in the DFW area?