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Thread: So, what did you do today?

  1. #1501
    Senior Member Grass-Passer
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    Quote Originally Posted by GlennCMC70 View Post
    The "clips" at the top are anti-rattle springs. They sit on top of the pads and push on the bridge of the caliper to keep the pads from "rattling" in the caliper. I've run w/out those for many years. Not an issue.
    The other 4.... that is up for debate. I've run w/ and w/out them. I have seen more issue from the backing plates on the pads themselves having a sharp edge that will allow the pad to "dig in" and not release smoothly. Take a look at them and round off the edges if they are sharp.

    Are the pistons in your calipers hard to push in?
    The front driver's side caliper is essentially stuck so I'm installing a new one. I seem to replace both sides at some point every year.

    I'm adding cooling ducts after MSR-C so maybe that will help. Or maybe it is just the Autozone rebuilt calipers.
    -Wayne
    -CMC #85

  2. #1502
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby
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    Quote Originally Posted by ShadowBolt View Post
    Yesterday I started trying to figure out what the knock was on my new (used) engine. I used the old screwdriver trick to listen to different areas. I could tell the knock was in the front of the engine (or at least I thought it was). So I decide to pull the front cover off. When I put the impact on the bolt holding the balancer on, it came off with almost no effort. It was no more than finger tight (you will see why later). I pulled the balancer off to find it had been eating into the front cover (going to far up on the crank). After pulling half a million bolts out of the cover, pan, and valve covers I took the cover off. I could not see anything wrong. I took the crank trigger wheel off and noticed it was all tore up. Now this was the wheel out of my old engine since I had read that the powdered metal wheels were prone to cracking. I saw where the chain had been hitting the wheel and went and got the old wheel to compare them. The powdered metal wheen has a 1/4" lip on it that keeps it off the chain. I looked at the bottom timing gear and it had no lip but the one out of the old engine did. So to use the stamped trigger wheel you have to use the new type crank gear. Who knew? If I had just left the powdered metal wheel alone I could have saved all this BS. I'm betting this was the noise and the engine is fine. I will put it back together and chainge the oil again.


    JJ
    My crossed fingers are starting to cramp.... LOL

  3. #1503
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby
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    Quote Originally Posted by HoustonNW View Post
    The front driver's side caliper is essentially stuck so I'm installing a new one. I seem to replace both sides at some point every year.

    I'm adding cooling ducts after MSR-C so maybe that will help. Or maybe it is just the Autozone rebuilt calipers.
    What kind of caliper grease are you using? I'll have to look to see the brand but Glenn pointed me towards some Ultra High Temp Caliper Grease and I do them every year. Take them out and clean it all then use the high temp grease.

    Jerry-that sounds encouraging and maybe the perfect time to upgrade the cams.
    Bryan Leinart
    CMC #24

  4. #1504
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby Fbody383's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Liebbe View Post
    So the snow wasn't really all that deep.
    What are you, 6'11"?

    That explains it, you're too tall for a race car.
    #39 CMC Camaro
    Orange is Fast!
    CMC-NT01 FTW!

  5. #1505
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby GlennCMC70's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HoustonNW View Post
    The front driver's side caliper is essentially stuck so I'm installing a new one. I seem to replace both sides at some point every year.

    I'm adding cooling ducts after MSR-C so maybe that will help. Or maybe it is just the Autozone rebuilt calipers.
    I'll need more details on this. Is the caliper not floating on the guide pins or are the pistons in the caliper stuck?
    Does it help to tell you Ihave been runningthe very same calipers since 2005. Not even a rebuild on them yet. I have to think your doing something wrong to get these results. Is this after any work you have done? Pad change? Anything?

    The guide pin lube I use is Permatex's Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant. It is rated to 3000 degree's. The Permatex P/N on the bottle is "Item # 24125".
    It contains Ceramic Solids - so I brushed it on my exhaust manifolds. I make a hell of a mess during brake jobs.

  6. #1506
    Senior Member Site AdminCarroll Shelby michaelmosty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fbody383 View Post
    Single track or open meadow stuff? Got to ride at the Continental Divide once. The couple ahead of my wife was going so slow they got stuck, so my wife slowed down and got stuck. The boy child and I stopped next to her, skis up so we could get out. When I stepped off to help her out, I sunk chest deep into the power.

    Yeah, from the torques boxes. Primer is a color too.
    Dave,
    It was a combination of roads, single track, and open areas. We'd go for a while through various conditions and then come to a nice open area and our guide would let us open them up. It ended up being 3 different pond-type areas where we just ran circles around the edge. Not huge but enough to get up to 45-50 mph.
    There were 4 of us that were lined up right behind the guide and then 4 others that always were a minute or two behind us. We would stop about every 10 minutes and wait for them to catch up and then continue on again. It was funny to hear the little kids tell their moms to go faster so they could stay up with the group!!
    -Michael Mosty
    CMC #11 Mosty Brothers' Racing
    Director - TX Region

  7. #1507
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby Fbody383's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by michaelmosty View Post
    It was a combination of roads, single track, and open areas.
    That's it... move Hallett to February on snowmobiles!
    #39 CMC Camaro
    Orange is Fast!
    CMC-NT01 FTW!

  8. #1508
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby ShadowBolt's Avatar
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    Put the engine back together with the correct crank trigger but no soap. F'ing thing knocks after it gets hot. Betting a broken piston at the wrist pin. Took my original iron block apark and it looks okay. Making Cresson is going to be hard now but I have to weeks..............

    JJ

  9. #1509
    Senior Member Grass-Passer Casey_SS's Avatar
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    Damn Jerry...you really pissed off the motor gods this time. Sounds tough but I'm pulling for ya to get it done in time. I'm literally just a few minutes down the road from you...send me a PM and lemme know how I can help.
    Last edited by Casey_SS; 03-04-2012 at 01:58 AM.
    2012 NASA-TX American Iron Champ
    AI #29

  10. #1510
    Senior Member Carroll Shelby
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    Jerry-sorry about breaking your arm. Looks nasty. Don't see how you are going to get the motor going with your arm. Do most of the parts interchange? I need to get back to polishing wheels. Good turnout at cars coffee yesterday. Think there were three mclarens.
    Bryan Leinart
    CMC #24

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